Tasted with Isabelle and Jean-Yves Vantey, April 2014.
Domaine des Rouges Queues
Isabelle et Jean Yves Vantey
10 rue Saint Antoine
Tel: +33 3 85 91 18 69+33 3 85 91 18 69
This pair started their wine adventure 18 years ago with just enough wine to make 9,000 bottles. From their (now) 5.7 hectares, they produced over 20,000 in 2012.
Jean-Yves is from Burgundy, but he met his Swiss Isabelle while living (and skiing!) in the Valais alps – an injury meant it was probably better for him to concentrate on vines! Jean-Yves spent 7 years as a tâcheron and tractoriste, but when 0.8 hectares of Maranges vines became available, he started from there. From 2006 he has been full-time working for the domaine – all Bio since 2008. There is just a tiny (0.2 ha) slice of Maranges and Hautes Côtes Blanc – but the domaine is overwhelmingly red-wine focused.
At harvest time, the triage is in the vines, 10-12 people in the team. The grapes are never 100% destemmed, but it depends on the vintage maturity. Fermentations are a mix of stainless-steel and wood – up to 20 days with a maximum of 2-3 days of pigeage and/or remontage. There are no new barrels used in elevage, indeed, they can be up to 10 years old.
In 2013 they will also have Maranges 1ers Fussière and Clos Roussots.
I first tasted these during an exhibition of ‘Bio’ producers in March – I thought the wines really brilliant, so arranged this tasting:
2012 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Wow! What gorgeous fruit – sure, there’s a hint of reduction but it vacates the glass very quickly. Good concentration and with very fine-grained tannins too. Good flavour – super!
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts deep and impressive with a little fruit-conserve. Round and mouth-filling, a growing, mouth-watering intensity too. Super shape, super flavour. Excellent!
From vines planted in 1943.
The nose is wider but less deep – time delivers fine, individually focused red berries. Here there is a brightness and a slowly growing but eventually overflowing, tasty brightness! There’s just a little drying tannin before the mid-palate explodes forward. Really super and absolutely yum!