2012s Tasted with Philippe Bardet and Éric de la Broise in Nuits St.Georges, 03 April, 2014.
I don’t know what type of day or phase of the moon it was, but the contents of this cellar were singing the day that I visited…!
Philippe on yields: 2012 yields were 50% of 2009. They were even less in 2013; for instance Mercury was less than 50% in 2013.
Philippe on 2012 prices:“More or less, the average is +20% – actually 10-30%! The drivers are higher demand, less wine and much higher grower pricing.” Interestingly, Philippe also notes that “New consumers seem not to be quite so vintage focused. This isn’t a reflection of lack of knowledge, rather the wish to learn, and just know the wines.”
A deep nose of round fruit. Round in the mouth too with good concentration and really super fruit. There’s plenty of acidity here, plenty of focus too. Fresh but really super-engaging!
There’s more aromatic ‘lift’. Slightly sweeter fruit, but the same focus and energy. Concentrated yet very elegant. Really lovely – the last drops in the glass smell gorgeous!
2012 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Fourneau
Here there’s a faint oak-spice, eventually something floral too. Again elegance coupled to energy and focus – quite long too. I’m very impressed by these wines so far.
2012 Beaune 1er Cent Vignes
Another with quite a forward, concentrated aromatic but one that’s also detailed. Here is a little more tannin and again ample concentration. The constituent parts seem not particularly ‘together’ today, but the aroma is very fine.
High-toned red fruit with violets. Complex and energetic yet with finesse. Not a particularly long finish but airy and super-elegant.
2012 Nuits St.Georges 1er Damodes
This is the only vineyard in the cellar tha had the same yields – 2011, 2012, 2013…
A deeper and more concentrated nose. Again some CO2. Round, concentrated and, there’s no denying, Vosne-like. Dark fruit in the finish and it’s very long. Again, super!
A silky nose – faintly spiced – the last droops in glass smell gorgeous. Full and very interesting in the mouth – lots of complexity and super mid-palate flavour-intensity. Lovely, lovely finish.
2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Craipillots
Deep, darkly fruited and showing a little pepper (new barrel). This is concentrated and more obviously (oak) structured. Really great mid-palate and finishing intensity. I’m very impressed.
2012 Clos de Vougeot
Tighter but still a rather concentrated aromatic – more obviously floral than the Corton. A little CO2, intense, mouth-watering fruit flavour leaches from your gums and tongue. Clearly structured but not in a fearsome way. Good wine.