Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Denis Bachelet, 18 May, 2014.
3, Rue de la petite issue
I’ve been buying the wines of this domain since 1998 but, for various reasons, this was my first visit chez Bachelet. The domaine is a very anonymous building at the corner of the main street (D974) in Gevrey. The building was erected in 1740 and served for generations as the post-office of Gevrey-Chambertin. I won’t do a potted history of the domaine, because frankly it would be a Herculean effort to try to improve on the one by done by Ola Bergman (here) last year – though I have to say, I didn’t spot the Belgian accent 😉
The 2012s were only just bottled and Denis didn’t think they would show well, so we took a quick tour of his 2013s – not so easy as the malos had only just started – they are usually later in this cool cellar.
Denis on 2013 yields:
“Versus many parts of the Côte d’Or we were lucky with our yields. The Bourgogne is a little down due to rot, but the rest of the yields I’d describe as ‘correct.'”
2013 Côte de Nuits Villages – just a super wine in the making – very deeply coloured.
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes – similarly impressive wine, made from the grapes of (now) 85 year-old vines.
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Evocelles – a new cuvée since 2011, just 3 barrels. Gorgeous aromatics and super length.
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux – hmm, too much malo to comment.
2013 Charmes-Chambertin – a finish of just gorgeous depth – place your orders now!
The cellar isn’t large enough for two vintages at once, so Denis already plans that his bottling should be around February/March – depending on the phase of the moon.
I had to introduce the subject to get Denis’s thoughts on pyrazines and by extension, pyrazines in his wines. He understands and seems to support the taint-link with coccinelle in 2004 but was unhappy that I suggested it could also be found in 2011 – “but we didn’t have coccinelle in Gevrey in 2011” he asserts. I mentioned the tasting that I ran for the Circle of Wine-Writers in May, and that blind, 25 from 26 tasters (I wasn’t included in either number) said his 2011 Côte de Nuits Villages had the taint. Denis marched straight to his bottle store and opened an unlabelled 2011 CdNV – it seemed to me perfect and without a trace of the pyrazine taint.
Was I insensitive that day? I have no idea, but I’ve tasted 5 different bottles of that 2011, all from the same source and they were very consistent. The 6th from the cellar of Denis was fine. I’ve no explanation.
I hope that Denis is still talking to me!