30 Burgundies in London


DSC04209Tasted in London, 14 May, 2014; a tasting hosted by wine-merchant, Private Cellar.

Producer: Domaine Bertrand Marchard de Gramont (Nuits St.Georges)

2010 Bourgogne En Chaillots
Virtually in the Nuits St.Georges villages area – but not quite.
The nose is very pretty and has some concentration too – almost strawberry fruit, backed with the faintest of reduction. Lithe and bright with really super density, given the label. This is really an executive Bourgogne rouge. Long and with plenty of intensity to the finish. Very super!
2010 Nuits St.Georges Les Terraces de Vallerots
Ripe and fine aromatic that majors on high-toned red fruit. Here is a little more fat, but there’s lovely mid-palate texture and a growing intensity of, almost, mineral flavour. Simply lovely.

2011 Nuits St.Georges Les Terraces de Vallerots
Bottled in May 2013.
The nose is less forceful but has silky tones and a few herbs. Versus the 2010 there seems more energy here, but less flesh. It’s a fine and bold finish with plenty of flavour. Yum!

2011 Nuits St.Georges Aux Allots
Vines with a good average age, located approaching Vosne.
It’s a modest, understated nose. In the mouth it’s a little more concentrated and with a little more intensity too. The finish is certainly more flavourful, indeed a very tasty finish. Yum again!

Producer: Domaine Philippe Roty (Gevrey-Chambertin)

2011 Marsannay, Champs Saint Etienne
The nose is deep, dark and faintly oaky – just a few higher-tones too. Good energy and lithe form with decent mid-palate density and a lovely finish.

2010 Marsannay, Champs Saint Etienne
The nose is rather reticent, at first. Good flavour dimension here and very good concentration too – maybe even a little dry extract. This is lovely, and (today) less obviously oaky.

2009 Marsannay, Champs Saint Etienne
Lighter colour. A little oak-toast aromatic. Also a little less sweet too, but with plenty of energy. Nice wine but I would rather guess 2008 than 2009 from the character and shape.

2008 Marsannay, Champs Saint Etienne
A higher-toned nose after the 2009 but the red fruit is à point. Actually very similar character to the 2009, with a lovely persistence of flavour from the mid-palate into the finish.

Producer: Domaine Parent (Pommard)

2011 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
The nose is rather modest, with a faint strawberry note. A hint of CO2 on the tongue but actually quite a nice glass.

2008 Pommard La Croix Blanche
The nose is high-toned and just a little padded and faintly truffled – very nice top and bottom notes. Actually less wide than the Bourgogne but with more finishing intensity and flavour.

2005 Pommard 1er Chaponnières
The nose has depth and some aromatic concentration – ripe and very slowly it opens in the glass. In the mouth it’s concentrated and round with plenty of understated, ripe tannin. Quite an intense character. Impressive but still partly closed methinks…

Producer: Domaine Remi Poissot

2012 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er En Caradeaux
Medium-plus colour. The nose is instantly impressive – it’s fresh but with fine, dark density. Wide in form and concentrated in the mouth, with some cushioning – it’s not the ultimate in focus but is simply a great, concentrated mouthful of wine.

2012 Corton-Bressandes
The aromatic is not quite so deep as that of the Pernand, more a powdery red fruit. Rounder and here there is more focus to the flavour. Growing intensity and a really nice perfumed fruit in the mouth too.

2008 Romanée St.Vivant
Lots of aromatic interest here; spice and lots of complex depth. Round, full of flavour intensity and just a hint of brashness to the leading-edge of the acidity. A clearly Grand Cru extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate into the finish. Love the complexity here.

2012 Corton-Charlemagne
Here is a fine depth of aroma – augmented with a few barrel notes. Concentrated, yet with focus and energy too. Good length, good Corton-Charlemagne.

Producer: Domaine Rois Mages – Anne Sophie Debavelaere

2012 Beaune 1er Les Sceaux
The nose is fresh and shows a nice width. Wide with good density of flavour – strawberry fruit flavour – and a slowly drying but interesting finish. Very tasty flavour in the finish. Yum!

2010 Beaune 1er Les Sceaux
Pretty though it’s quite a modest nose today. Lots of energy and focus – a hint of padding and concentration too. I like this a lot.

Producer: Thierry & Pascale Matrot (Meursault)

2012 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Vines situated near Puligny.
Fresh, pretty, faintly strawberry fruit – the keyword is faint. There’s good flavour dimension here – a stony flavour and it finishes well. Good wine, very good BPN!
2012 Maranges Vieilles-Vignes
From Dezizes.
Lovely fruit intensity – a clean and pretty nose. Good width and modest depth but there’s a growing intensity of quality fruit flavour. Just lovely.

2009 Auxey-Duresses
The nose is a little more diffuse. Full, round and actually rather tasty – seems more rustic than the 2012s though.

2011 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Fresh, a little salt – quite Chablis-like. Round but with good intensity and a little savouriness. Stony extraction in the finish – quite tasty!

2010 St.Aubin 1er Fleurs de Coteaux
The nose is waxy and has some depth – it’s quite pretty. Fresh in the mouth, starting mineral, the flavour grows and grows. This is quite pretty, and it has a tasty finish too!

2012 Meursault
The nose has a little toasted bread – perhaps eventually gingerbread. Lovely focus, freshness and detail – Yum!

Producer: Seguin-Manuel (Beaune)

2011 Savigny-lès-Beaune Vieilles-Vignes
The nose is faintly toasted, and faintly perfumed too. Seemingly more like a good BPN concentration, but, I have to say it’s very tasty. There’s absolutely nothing amiss here today – yum!

2009 Beaune 1er Cent Vignes
The nose is rather tight, offering only a little toast – the last drops in the glass have a very lovely aroma though. Very good width and intensity. There’s roundness and decent concentration towards the finish. Very tasty wine.

2012 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières
A width of very nice aromatic intensity. Good and ripe dimension of fruit – energy and focus too. Overall it’s a discrete intensity that sustains the good finish.

2012 Pommard 1er Les Grands Epenots
A note of reduction but there’s fine aromatic depth. Plenty of structure and good intensity – eventually there’s a nice fruit-flavour too! Quite concentrated and very-much a baby.

Producer: Domaine Chartron (Puligny)

2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Clos de la Combe
A fresh and rather pretty nose. Round, a little full but concentrated too. There’s also some extra dimension of flavour. Tasty, concentrated Bourgogne with just enough balancing acidity.

2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Pucelle
A concentrated aroma from the glass that has depth and an impression of dry extract. Full, with plenty of concentration in the mouth too, a growing intensity of extract here – but despite the weight of that extract there is not just balance, but brio too. Yum!

2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Pucelle (Magnum)
The nose is wide if not so deep, yet it is also inviting. Full, round and concentrated – there’s a big ‘boom’ of flavour and then a slowly lingering note that is long, long…

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