Tasted in Maligny with Olivier Savary, 06 April 2022.
Domaine Francine et Olivier Savary
4 Chemin des Hâtes
89800 Maligny
Tel: +33 3 86 47 42 09
www.chablis-savary.com
More reports with Domaine Savary
Olivier on this year’s frost:
“The first three buds were open and have been largely lost, those below were hardly or not at all open – and not the opposing buds so I’m hopeful for those – I’d rather say 30-40% loses today and be happy to say only 20% losses in another month than the reverse – let’s see. In 2016 we had hail. 2017 frost, 2018 was fine, 19 and 20 were ‘average’ due to mix dryness and roasted grapes – 21 was poor – so we’ve lost 3 harvests since 2016… The ‘ones’ (2011, 2021 etcetera) stay in the mind a little because since 1961 we have only had one decent vintage finishing in a 1 – and that was 11 which had it’s own complications.”
Olivier on 2020:
“2020 brought an average volume – not too bad but at least 20% down – without the summer dryness it would have been ‘correct.’ Wines that will, I think, reach their apogee in 3-4 years. We work a lot with restaurants so covid was a difficult time – sales effectively stopped for a time – but involuntarily we could re-stock! Since autumn we have sold a lot and there’s not a lot of 2021 to replace them. We have to keep our fingers crossed for 2022!”
The wines…
A very good range in 2020, occasionally worth a special search – look out for the excellent Epineuil from here too!
All were bottled:
A small parcel in Villé the rest all from Maligny.
Open, perfumed – that’s a great starting point. Incisive, lots of concentration but not to the detriment of the energy and acidity. That’s a super wine – slightly structured so give it a little time in the cellar – but super citrus energy here – bravo – always a great cuvée here!
2020 Chablis
Like the Petit Chablis, this has only a tank elevage. Vines in Maligny and Villé again
Wider, if less aromatic depth – still perfumed. Also with good energy – here there are more citrus bitters. But this is fine over the palate, growing in intensity. Super Chablis with an excellent finish.
2020 Chablis Sélection Vieilles-Vignes
A cuvée since 1995. A single parcel of 50-year-old vines. This natural cork, the rest are DIAM. 20% elevage in 500-litre barrels.
A more vertical nose, slightly narrower but showing extra salinity. More generous, more concentrated, but with fine points of intensity and complexity. Still plenty of energy. Layered and delicious finishing – extra here – strong finishing. A different style but no less excellent!
2020 Chablis Hommage
A parcel that looks across the valley to the VV but the soil and exposure are different. All tank elevage
Extra freshness but the same salinity as the previous – super-classic this. Wide, more sensuous, super texture perhaps a hint of green in this wine but the shape and sophistication are there for all to see. Without the green a great wine – even with it’s still almost a great one!
2020 Chablis 1er Vaillons
A contract with a friend – ‘but for grapes’ – the same parcel each year.
A freshness of lime-citrus to this wine. Extra – fresh AND more mineral, extra complexity and a little more apparent structure. For keeping but the finishing is very impressively long.
2020 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
More composed, beautiful clarity and depth of aroma – that’s super. Super pure, quite direct – beautiful silky texture. Energy and growing intensity. Structured but never hard – a wine to wait a little WHILE for but clearly excellent wine!
2020 Bourgogne Epineuil
0.8 ha originally and now have a new parcel so hoping from 2022 there will be extra grapes for this – 21 didn’t provide much! All destemmed, a couple of days cool maceration.
Just about medium colour. A big fresh hug of aroma from this wine – so very open with crunchy red fruit. In the mouth, direct, a little more tart after the Chablis, but wide, open, and with lots of energetic flavour. Nothing green though modestly austere today. Give in 2 years – or a carafe. Delicious stuff despite the austerity!