Tasted in Chablis with Fabien Moreau, 06 April 2022.
Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils
26 avenue d’Oberwesel
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 86 34
www.domainechristianmoreau.com
More reprts with Domaine Christian Moreau
Fabien on 2022:
“I think 50% of the domaine is untouched but we have done everything in the vines as late as possible. We had -6.5°C in Clos but also in Vaillons. 5 of our hectares are ‘protected’ and those not protected are pruned late. But we had, historically, never seen Vaillons frosted but since 2017 this is the third time – maybe we’ve lost as much as 40%. The Sunday-Monday wasn’t the big problem despite being colder as it was dry but Saturday to Sunday it was crazy – it was snowing while we were running the aspersion.”
Fabien on 2020:
“Almost 50 hl/ha for the domaine – we can be very happy with that. On paper a hot vintage – the hottest since 2003 but not really any canicule and no roasted grapes – everything was early – at the end of March we had much more growth than this year, hence, harvesting at the end of August – but with really modest alcohols. There was a strong hydric stress and the vines were often blocked. Our wines came out at 12-13° – 12.9° was our highest – for the cuvée Guy Morin.”
The wines…
All these wines had been opened the night before and I think that really helped the presentation – though it will potentially hide any greenness. If you drink now it works, so carafe! Really a very fine address for 2020…
A large part of these wines have been in bottle for 1 month. As usual, all the wines are sealed with ‘traditional’ DIAM, though there is a trial running with the ‘Origine’ version:
1.5 ha of domaine vines in Pargues.
Ripe but incisive lemon citrus clarity – slightly padded – yes! Beautiful over the palate – so sensuous, so silky. Slow-moving waves of finishing flavour. Practically a great villages!
2020 Chablis 1er Vaillons
There are 6 parcels of Vaillons at the domaine – 5 are assembled for this cuvée.
An extra waft of freshness – also a little extra barrel spice – though still modest. A bead of gas, again gorgeous direct clarity to this flavour. A beautiful thing again, suggesting an accent of oak in the fine yellow citrus finish.
2020 Chablis 1er Vaillons Cuvée Guy Moreau
Vines that are over 80 years old – the ‘sixth’ parcel of Vaillons. The oldest vines planted by grandfather in 1933, a longer elevage and just a few newer barrels.
Here is a côte d’orian style of lush fruit and plenty of barrel – blind I’d be tempted to say Chassagne! Mouth-filling, extra minerality but rounder and more padded by the oak so less direct and invigorating than the previous wine. Here’s a cuvée that always needs 3-5 years to show its best and I think it has everything you will need – Probably more than excellent and the finishing is beautifully saline!
2020 Chablis Vaudésir
Some oak but really an extra width and complexity to this aromatic. Beautiful, beautiful width – such clarity, mouth-watering, perfect texture, hyper-mineral and absolutely drinkable today despite how primary it is. Bravo! This is actually half-tank elevage.
A little less width but more subtly complexity – aromatically compact versus the last. Ooh – incisive – ultra-silky. Ultra-direct. So mineral. Great wine again, primary yet engaging and it could only come from Chablis. A nose short of great today but I have full confidence!
A little more open and showing a little oak again – but a fine clarity too – yes! Yikes – this is good! Ultra mineral – gorgeous, gorgeous over the palate – then, wait for it, the river bursts its banks with a mouth-watering extra for the finishing flavour. Overall a little understated today – but great wine in waiting.
The nose is broader and more open – perfumed, hardly a note of barrel – super. A little extra fat – otherwise this is as silky and mineral as the rest of the range – what a range! – More juicy finishing too – here the extra oak dimension is most visible – but you should anyway wait 5-6 years before opening. Bravo!