Tasted in Fontenay-près-Chablis with Julie, Gilles & Nathalie Fèvre, 12 March 2024.
Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fèvre
Route de Chablis
89800 Fontenay-près-Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 18 94 47
www.nathalieetgillesfevre.com
Domaine Instagram
More reports with Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre
Nathalie on 2023 (mainly) plus 2022:
“The 2023s are already tasting very well and we were very happy with the harvest. There are many similarities between 23 and 22 – a bit more volume in 23 but the concentration is in place so they make us smile… We try to keep reasonable with the prices but everything has gone up – the worst is the electricity! As for 2022, it didn’t start well – frost, like in 2021 – but the weather that followed allowed the vines to restart. 2023 had no frost but the start of the season was very wet – working organically we had a lot to do – but we got compensation in in terms of the good volume – 72 hl/ha – we were shocked – we are normally in the 40s! In both vintages we started harvesting in August – though the 22s were nearly 10 days earlier than in 23 – though probably the extra volume of 23 needed that extra time.”
The wines…
Always a pleasure to taste here – the GCs were a little discreet today but there were great wines, worth a special search, at all levels below…
All the 22s are bottled – the last in January. All are sealed with DIAM – and for over 10 years now – even their larger-format bottles:
We like to bottle this earlier to lock in the fruit.
A freshness of aroma – fruity too. Large in scale – juicy – a little structure – really juicy and saline finishing flavours – that’s a lovely wine – more than excellent for the label. Top!
2022 Chablis
A more linear, fine yellow citrus aromatic. Larger width in the mouth – subtly structured and with a lovely juicy finish again like the PC – just a hint more serious – it’s a super wine.
A wider and more floral nose. Hmm – extra dimensions here – more architectural wine too – this I really love – so many open dimensions of flavour – that’s top Chablis – bravo! The finish a width of vibrating flavour – so long…
2022 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Some older, larger, barrel elevage
Extra depth with a little less width of aroma but fine higher-toned energy. A nicely strict and intense width of flavour here – holding impressively – that’s a super finish. Super wine…
2022 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
In the centre of the vineyard. Since 2020 a contract wine from friends. 50% barrel and 50% stainless eggs for elevage.
Here the oak is visible with some spice. Lots of scale in the mouth – really impressive energy too – with a small grain of tannin. The creamy oak would have me waiting at least 2-3 years before drinking. But this is another really fine wine…
Vinified like the last except that the 228-l barrels are replaced with 500s.
A more airy top note – perfumed with flowers. In the mouth too – full, high-toned energy with floral perfume. More evident intensity here too – ooh – that’s a simply top MdT – bravo!
20% with barrel – a little new but the rest in tank.
A much broader nose, again with some florals and a base of minerality that’s visible here. Hmm – you note the minerality that supports this wine – deep, deep – and so concentrated in the middle and finishing flavours. I’d be keeping this for 5 years just because you should. I think it will be a great one.
2022 Chablis Les Preuses
Vines next to Willaim Fevre at the top of the slope. Always about one-third barrel elevage – a mix of 228s and 500s. The rest is tank elevage.
Plenty of width again but just a little less expressive than the Vaulorent. Hmm – tu here is such volume and energy to balance the concentration and such an intensity in the finish – here with a mild oaky accent. A wine that’s hiding much today but the silhouette that it does show is a very impressive one.
2022 Chablis Les Clos
A contract. A small production here – around 600 bottles.
An extra oak spice is visible in this width of aroma. Hmm – really broad over the palate, complex, layered, and even a little airy in style. The barrel is present so I’d be waiting 2-3 years but here is a super elegant wine that holds and holds its finishing complexity – it’s a really lovely wine.
And for the road:
2018 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Lots of volume, even a faint reduction, it’s slightly creamy too. Hmm, beautiful clarity in the mouth – the texture too – I find a lovely precision here. An iodé side to this wine – just subtly with a little creamy development – I think it is a beauty.
2013 Chablis 1er Vaulorent
A large, almost textural nose. In the mouth, this is more direct than the nose it has some mineral base too – the complexity given by the problems at vintage time are apparent but really interesting. I love it – not the clarity of vintages on either side but such a complex and tasty wine with a little cushion to the texture too.