Tasted in Fyé with Sébastien Christophe, 15 March 2024.

Domaine Christophe et Fils
Ferme des Carrieres
89800 Fyé
Tel: +33 3 86 55 02 83
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More reports with Domaine Christophe et Fils

Sébastien on his recent vintages:
“In the last years, the Petit Chablis have really been on the fruit and been drinking deliciously right from bottling – it wasn’t always like that. 2023 was our final year of organic conversion, so it was a little complicated – it was an early start in the vines – then it was cold – almost on the limit – lots of work controlling the weeds as there was so much rain. And that brought issues with mildew and it hit the grapes for sure but we were lucky to have a lot of grapes to start and the loss of the dried, mildewed grapes actually made for a proper volume and good wines. In comparison, there was less volume in 2022 but still a good volume and, of course, a lot more than in 2021! The Petit Chablis and Chablis were bottled in March – a little early as the volume of 2021s was so low – we’ll wait for April for the 2023s – the 22 1ers were done before the 2023 harvest – and they have sold very well.”

The wines…

A certain elegance to all the wines this year, even when they have some structure to wait for. A top vintage at this domaine in 2022. Not all are ‘great’ but those that are not, are pretty close!

Currently the wines are sealed with cork for the old-vine cuvée and the 1er crus, DIAM-style for the Petit Chablis and actual DIAM for the Chablis:

2022 Petit Chablis
Fine and fresh – not a large nose but this attractive citrus is very inviting. Good volume in the mouth – faintly tannic, layers of tasty flavour and with a slight generosity but essentially a fine energy here – the last flavours and energy are great, almost juicy – it’s great finishing, delicious wine.

2022 Chablis
Like the last, with all tank elevage.
Hmm – this has airy but fine and precise light-yellow citrus notes – it’s very attractive. Starting with a little softness, then a faint grain of tannin – a more contemplative wine but more mineral too. The finish with more scale – a large wave with a little citrus bitters and salinity included. A young but excellent wine – wait 2 years.

2022 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Vines planted by grandfather in 1959 – 10-15% barrel – 228s and then blended with the rest that has tank elevage just before bottling. Have a new parcel neighbouring that’s coming in 2023 from grandmother’s side – 37 yo vines – a nice extra 30 hl says Christophe.
A fine elegant width of aroma – there’s a nice elegance to all the aromatics here – so far. In the mouth this wine’s a bit more incisive and almost chiselled – the finish of multiple waves of tasty flavour – and the oak is invisible – well done – simply an excellent wine.

2022 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
This with closer to 20% barrel elevage…
A nice, almost spicy freshness – golden citrus, almost floral airiness. I like the zesty texture of some of these citrus bitters – it’s an open impression almost fluid – that’s just such a drinkable wine – almost dangerous! Delicious and excellent.

2022 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Made just like the Fourchaume
A much wider and more open aroma – almost some seashore aromas here. I the mouth it’s juicy and faintly grained with tannin. I really like the structure here, direct, slightly more depth – not as fluid as the Fourechaume but the freshness is clear as is the depth of delicious flavour too – again you won’t taste the oak – it’s so well-judged here. Just ultra delicious and really no need to wait to drink.