Tasted in Préhy with Laurent Ternynck, 13 March 2024.
Domaine de Mauperthuis
3, Grande rue de Chablis
89800 Préhy
Tel: +33 3 86 41 42 70
www.chablismarronniers.com/
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Laurent on 2023:
“It was a good vintage but with organic/biodynamic practices we didn’t make the volumes of some other places. Still, there’s a bit more volume than in 2022 for the reds and about the same in the Chablis. We had some hail in the Petit Chablis and a strong storm too but that was the only place where we lost some volume.”
Laurent on 2022:
“Almost all the 2022s are now bottled, just a couple of reds are still waiting in barrel – the césar and the Iranc Mazelots – the 2022 Chablis is almost sold out already. The season was easier in terms of treatments than in 2023, but 2023 was easier in terms of the growth of the vines.”
The wines…
Some delicious wines in 22 – and, dare I say it, some great césar !!
DIAM for some of the base wines, PC and Chablis, the rest are cork.
2022 Les Brulis
All tank with 4 days pre-fermentation cooling, a vinification only of remontage – this made for fruitiness.
A little spicy start to this nose. Supple, layered – nicely concentrated wine, slightly generous with a fine textured width and some finishing intensity too, very faintly tannic in this finish but not drying. Wait a year for best effect but this will be delicious.
2022 Bourgogne Grand Reserve
A year of elevage in barrel – 20% new. Bottled November – like the last neither filtered or fined.
A more open width, slightly cushioned darker fruit – seemingly textured. Large in the mouth with a frame of fine-grained, but not drying, tannin. Supple and really delicious – slightly generous again but a bit more energy – I’d wait until the weekend for this(!) but you should keep it 1 year – excellent wine.
2022 Maupertuis, Irancy
Three parcels blended – all hand harvested. Just assembled before bottling
Higher-toned red fruit – a bit of structure and certainly more vertical aromatic than the last – it’s a good invitation. In the mouth larger, fresher scale, almost a fluidity to these flavours – with just a little extra finishing florals too. Better to wait a few months – but not years! Another super wine.
2022 Maupertuis, Irancy Mazelots
There’s a small herb that implies wc but there were none. Wide, a mm of generosity, cool, mobile fruit – I like the texture – velour – and the finish is larger and more concentrated, faintly of the barrel but that will disappear over the next year or two – excellent!!
2022 Maupertuis, Irancy Vaupessiot
4th vintage that this has been vinified apart.
Also a calmer nose – but less herb. Cooler, but a depth of velour for texture here – extra tannin but hardly extra dry – maybe an extra salinity that comes with them – this you should wait a couple of years – not that it’s austere but that you will have a more open complexity. But the finish has a beautiful focus and length
83 year old vines with plenty of César in this blend.
Broader more airy, still some power to these aromas – only the faintest of pyrazine here, a hint of florals too. The power of the last, some of the structure too but with the fluid energy of the Mazelots to balance this power and structure. Again, bravo!
2020 César
Ooh – that’s deeply coloured. Also a little herb like the other Irancy but nothing outwardly, negatively, of cesar. Mouth-filling but less directly concentrated than the Vaupessiot and Mazelots – but here is still good concentration and an inky depth. That’s incredibly impressive vs the fist 100% césars from this domaine. A bottle that I would open at home – it’s excellent – the finish with an almost graphite minerality!
This with barrel and it’s not yet assembled
A fresh, silky nose – yes! Cool, fine energy – plenty of tannin but ripe and not dry, creaminess of barrel in the middle and finishing flavours. Juicy and delicious – bravo!
Amphora with skin contact for a year. A separate cuvée – not to be blended with the previous.
A more open but more airy nose. I sense the cesar-ness more here – but also more structure and more floral perfume – much more complex, even without the barrel cream of the finish. But this I’d wait 2 years… It could also be a great one!
Les Whites:
2022 Maupertuis Bourgogne Les Truffières
A good volume of ripe but still fresh yellow citrus. Cool fruit nicely direct but melting flavour over the palate. Deliciously mouth-watering in the finish and here with a small chalky, tannic texture. A super finish.
2022 Maupertuis, Bourgogne Chardonnay Grand Reserve
Grapes from the same area but with more and longer barrel elevage.
Not a wide nose but a fine nose, with a slowly growing accent from the barrel elevage. Nice scale, meliting flavour, again with a small grain of tannin. The oak is relatively strong in the finish – so for my taste, I’d be waiting 2 years but this has a lovely fluidity and delicious style.
2020 Marronniers, Petit Chablis
A 5-hectare parcel called Temps Perdu in the plateau of Préhy. Youngest plantation of the domaine – about 15 years old – behind the buildings of JM Brocard..
A small warmth of citrus at the base of this wine. This is fine in the mouth though – a little rounder but very silky – the complexity of ripe fruit. A bit more energy to pep this up but the concentration and texture are very fine.
2022 Marronniers, Chablis
Extra open, more clarity, precision. Hmm, also a generous wine but of volume and concentration. The finish is large and completely delicious – it’s citrus of the riper style – but not exotic – completely delicious but another where I’d like a bit more energy/juiciness.
2022 Marronniers, Chablis Les Malantes
This with elevage in foudre.
A silky width of citrus. More direct, cool, and slightly mineral. Three’s even a small grain of tannin. This is the more mineral and energetic of these so far – it’s delicious and moreish.
2022 Marronniers, Chablis Montmains
Almost 2 years in tank on lees – it wasn’t easy to ferment in this vintage, this wine reductive for a long time.
Here’s an extra, airy freshness of aroma. Also juicy – almost zesty – energy, mobile, complex agrume – one of those 22s with some blood-orange flavour. More mineral in the long finish. That’s a beautiful & delicious wine.
2022 Marronniers, Chablis Côte de Jouen
The nose a little cooler, still yellow citrus but more stony. Cool, direct, vibrant – beautiful Chablis – the balance is fine, the finish almost tending to fizzy right now. But it will be an excellent wine – I love it!