Tasted in Chablis with Benoit Droin, 14th January 2015.
Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin
8 Boulevard de Ferrières
Tel: +33 3 86 42 16 78
Benoit Droin on the 2013s:
“A small harvest – minus 30%. It was because of the poor flowering, but not just that, it seemed that many of the grapes never developed to maturity.
“There was 40 mm of rain on the Saturday, fortunately all but one parcel had been harvested. That last one was done on the Monday, but already some of the grapes were dropping to the ground.”
All in bottle since September or so. A mix of richer and fine, fresh wines – though at this stage quite a few with a reductive character today – but that ought to pass…
2013 Chablis 1er Vosgros
100% tank elevage.
A more mineral nose with a slightly different style of reduction. Fresher, more energy, some minerality and a growing complexity of flavour. Much more interesting, and again with plenty of perfume in the finish. Much more like it!
2013 Chablis 1er Vaillons
Rather tight with a little reduction below. Lovely intensity of direct flavour and slowly growing intensity. Good minerality here. Rather classic Chablis that just needs to lose a little reduction. Perfumed flavor in the finish again.
A deeper nose of green herb notes. Even fresher, with fine complexity and quite some minerality below a lovely line of flavour – that again harbours some perfume and holds with quite some power in the finish. Very good. A reprise of flavour some time after swallowing – very impressive!
2013 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
A little more weight of aroma, if still rather modest (tight). Full and round, some richness and plenty of silk – yet – this tastes rather good! Plenty of minerality, perfume and flavour intensity in the finish. Very, very good!
2013 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Still a little tight, but here is a deep and mineral nose. Lithe, fresh, complex and interesting flavor – lovely – just a modest salinity, still some perfume and a mouth-watering flavour in the finish. Still the Montmains has the best finish, but this is very good.
First vintage with 35 year-old vines – Benoit seems very taken with this new plot.
The first wine with some aromatic energy, and lots of complexity too. Full, with a rich texture but also intense, concentrated flavour with good balance. I find this excellent. Super length, super wine!
2013 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
Wide but a tight aromatic depth – there are faint minerals and a reductive impression. Lovely, lovely in the mouth – super classic Chablis though with a grand cru like texture. After you swallow the flavour profile continues to grow and grow. Super!
2013 Chablis Vaudesir
Another that’s a little tight mainly offering a modest note of reduction. Super-intense, silky and faintly plush, with a fine mineral base. A big round flavour in the finish – quite some impact. This is very tasty…. Another with a late reprise of flavour!
2013 Chablis Valmur
Open, deeper, more creamy oak notes on the nsoe. Wide with a little fat and silky texture – here is more weight of flavour and quite some width of finishing flavour. Plenty of perfume in the finish again.
2013 Chablis Grenouilles
Wider aromas, more open with green herb and mineral notes. Big, round and very mineral, a little rich and with a slowly building concentration of acidity. Generous wine with fine length!
2013 Chablis Les Clos
Still quite tight but there’s also an implied generosity to the aroma. Round, with sweeter acidity, less chiseled, but with super complexity and very good energy too. A very nice ‘pop’ of flavour in the finish and a weight of finishing flavour too. Today modest (except for the finish) but fine potential…