I admit that I rather fell out with the wines from this domaine following the release of the 1997 and 1998 vintages, wines with hair-raising tannins and little redeeming features to balance – or at least to stake a case for patience – but the 1995’s and 1996’s I always loved. A handy half-bottle provides the opportunity for a status report – given the performance I’m sure my Richebourgs will not be touched before their 20th anniversary…
1996 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot
Still medium-plus colour, now it’s quite ruby-red though still a slightly cherry-red reflection remains. The nose is super-deep, chocolate-coated undergrowth with just a hint of more volatile elements. Lithe – actually quite muscular – with fading velvet tannin and real extra dimension in the mid-palate. This has a super, chocolate framed, finish that’s borne on great acidity. Powerful, concentrated but balanced; even in half-bottle format this is halfway between an intellectual challenge and pure pleasure, so in well-stored, larger, formats I would suggest waiting at least another 5 years.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Christophe Pacalet, Chiroubles
Medium-plus cherry-red. Beaujolais aromatics, but in the best sense – fruity but with a serious and quite dense core. Soft velvet across the tongue. Raised red fruits – a little plum – perfect acidity and a slightly savoury edge to the fruit-driven finish. Very tasty wine – of which I drank a little more than my usual share…
Rebuy – Yes

The thing about bottles like this is that they are only one thrid the price of most well-known producers’ villages wines from the Côtes – it’s clearly not pinot noir – at least it bears no relation at this age, but I’m seriously(-ish) considering whether I should replace a portion of my drinking (20%?) with BJ, I’d save plenty of cash…

2006 Roulot, Bourgogne Aligoté
Maybe it was because I was just back from a 10 mile run, but this is/was a wonderfully refreshing drink. Soft and high-toned. Perfect balance and reasonably concentrated in the mouth – the acidity plays wonderfully across the tongue. On the negative side it’s rather simple for its price-tag – I think all the Roulot Bourgognes are priced above their quality level now, at least from European retailers – but it is a super summer drink.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Guy Breton, Morgon – p’tit Max
Medium, medium-pale colour. A high toned, slightly volatile nose. In the mouth that hint of volatility remains but the mid-palate shows a nice depth and also good texture. Reasonably well balanced with little overt tannin, but at best, an okay wine.
Rebuy – no