Like all these Clos de Vougeots there’s deep core of colour. The nose has width and high, faintly alcoholic tones but also beautiful red fruits and violets though you destroy the picture if you swirl. A mouthful of perfume, fine but forward acidity, little obvious tannin, yet a very long finish that is borne on the vintage acidity. If you give it sufficient time – more than 2 hours – the mid-palate really fills out with dimension such that the acidity is apparently more balanced. I winced, but I really enjoyed it. Day two the palate is fuller and less pain-inducing – even better!
Clos de Vougeot
1996 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot
Still medium-plus colour, now it’s quite ruby-red though still a slightly cherry-red reflection remains. The nose is super-deep, chocolate-coated undergrowth with just a hint of more volatile elements. Lithe – actually quite muscular – withfading velvet tannin and real extra dimension in the mid-palate. This has a super, chocolate framed, finish that’s borne on great acidity. Powerful, concentrated but balanced; even in half-bottle format this is halfway between an intellectual challenge and pure pleasure, so in well-stored, larger, formats I would suggest waiting at least another 5 years.
1996 Castagnier Guy Clos de Vougeot
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is wild and interesting; savoury and fecund maybe even a licorice edge, yet there is tight core of red fruit too that will need more time to fully blossom. This wine shows the most tannin of the 4 Castagniers, faintly drying but leaving a fine, soft coating on your teeth. Really intense, the concentration does a great job of balancing the acidity. The palate is quite backward though perhaps not so much as the Bonnes-Mares. A super nose, the palate just needs another 3-5 years to catch up. Will be super.
1996 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot
1996 Castagnier Guy Clos de Vougeot
Medium-plus core of ruby only fading slightly at the rim. The nose starts with a little oak, slowly settling down to a dense red cherry fruit, slightly powdery but little else showing. The palate shows fine tannins that slowly build and very good acidity. Tightly presented, intense fruit, deep but still quite primary. Tasty enough now, but I’m really looking forward to tasting this again in another 3+ years.
1996 Jadot Louis Clos de Vougeot
Deep colour. Nose is black cherry with soil and fallen leaves. The palate has prominent furry tannins and very good acidity. The fruit is incredibly intense black cherry, in fact almost sour cherries. Very long too, though still very young. This wine is more structured and primary than most 2000’s and I wouldn’t touch another for 4-5 years. Excellent potential.