The nose here gives the impression of a bit more muscle and in shape shows more width than depth. Clearly another level of structure on the palate, but those tannins are polished and the flavour is more overtly mineral than fruity. Impressive stuff – the last drops in the glass now show a super-classy red berry note. Despite the polish, proper CV!
Clos de Vougeot
2009 Lamarche Francois Clos de Vougeot
2008 Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot
2009 Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot
2007 Remoissenet Père et Fils Clos de Vougeot
2008 Remoissenet Père et Fils Clos de Vougeot
2008 Giroud Camille Clos de Vougeot
2008 Roche de Bellene Clos de Vougeot
1986 Confuron-Cotetidot Clos de Vougeot
Medium, medium-plus colour. The first sniff will weaken your knees, such is the depth of dark macerated cherry, padded with earth. Like the last two 86s I’ve opened, here is a wine that seems excellently balanced – the acidity is good – yet it’s not refreshingly moreish, it doesn’t beg you to take another sip, all have somehow seemed acid-shy when they’re not – strange. The texture is silky before a fine but astringent tannin starts to take over. A high-toned fruit expands across the mid-palate before very slowly lingering – it’s a high-quality finish. This is a wine of power and still some aspect of youth, it’s a bit of a cliché to say ‘austere’ but there is still something of that about it – am I allowed to say a 24 year-old wine is too young? – the nose suggests more today than the full package actually delivers. No rush to open the last two bottles…