Tasted with Olivier Heimbourger in Saint-Cyr-les-Colons, 14 May 2024.
Domaine Heimbourger
25 rue de la porte de Coulon
89800 Saint-Cyr-les-Colons
Tel: +33 3 86 41 40 88
www.domaine-heimbourger.com
Here are (effectively) two domaines run respectively by Olivier and Lydie Heimbourger.
The domaine on Olivier’s side consists of 16 hectares deriving from his grandparents – so he’s the 3rd generation. Lydie is from a Chablis family and her parents have recently retired so there’s an additional 8 hectares that used to be with the coop – including 2 1er crus: Montmains and Beauregards.
Olivier recounts that the Heimbourgers were a family that originated in Alsace but left due to the Prussians, moving to Chicago. Despite being in the US they were still ‘mobilised’ by France in the 1st world war – they came back and never left again…
Sales are 2/3rds France for the 16 hectares of the Irancy side and about half France for the 8 hectares from Chablis… Plenty of vines planted between St.Cyr and Prehy – a large area that is Bourgogne classified but on Kimmerigian soil.
The wines…
A first visit to this address and I found wines that were very good and often excellent on both sides of the matrimonial divide !!
2023 Passetoutgrains
Just bottled. Over 50-year-old vines – the oldest of the domaine – a co-plantation of pinot and gamay that’s about 60% gamay…
A width of cherry freshness. Mouth-filling, chewy, tasty wine with lots of finishing concentration. Very tasty wine…
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
From St.Cyr
Lighter colour. Rounder, lightly herbed red fruit aromas. Supple in the mouth – open and airy but not lacking any depth of flavour. Slowly widening in the finish – almost steely in style. This is longer-finishing than the PTG but I slightly prefer the flavour energy of the PTG…
2022 Irancy
Destemmed like all the reds here but includes 5% cesar – foudre elevage for this wine…
More impact and more cherry stone style – plenty of herby complexity too. Hmm, this has more energy and flavour depth – energy too. An almost chewy depth to this finishing flavour – it’s super.
2022 Irancy Cuvée Pierre
Name of father – a number of parcels assembled here though mainly just 2; Les Cailles and Veaux Lâchés
A more cushioned breadth of aroma – again with a finely grained, herbed, complexity. More structure but more interest too – the tannin certainly more present – and a suggestion of barrel too – super finishing flavour interest and energy too. That’s an excellent wine but keep it for 3 years to let the class take precedence over the structure… 5 is the optimum says Olivier…
Les whites:
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Gris
Planted in the 1990s between Préhy and St.Cyr – left in the pressoir for about 4 hours and directly pressed after then vinified like a white.
A very light rosé colour. A depth and almost cushion to these aromas that’s both pretty and inviting. Cool, mineral – a wine of scale and lovely, lovely fresh minerality in the finish.
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Fresh, mineral, almost a small reduction. Good scale in the mouth – quite generous at the base – finishing long and with plenty of concentration. Contemplative and tasty…
2022 (Lydie) Petit Chablis ‘Petit Secret’
More airy, this is a perfumed nose – that’s a very fine invitation. Good shape and concentration. The middle and finishing flavours are intense and only slowly fading. That’s a fine, delicious PC – nicely perfumed too!
2023 (Lydie) Chablis Secret
Fuller, with the energy of younger fruit. Direct, more concentrated and more obviously mineral – less sweet than the PC but beautifully textured wine. Layered fruit in this finish – give it a year, preferably 2 and it will be very good.
2022 Chablis Cuvée Pierre
No new barrels but batonnage here.
Airy, almost slightly reductive. Here is extra scale and depth to the flavour, a little more comforting sweetness too. The finish almost with a hint of easy toffee-caramel – very slowly fading – it’s surprising me with its length too…
2022 (Lydie) Chablis 1er Montmains Secret
About 45-year-old vines…
A rather tight nose today – some small white flower complexity. Hmm – good scale and lots of mineral character. Excellent finishing width to this flavour, very slowly fading. This is almost strict in its style but a mineral style that’s not hard – it just needs to open out in a more demonstrative style.
2022 (Lydie) Chablis 1er Beauregard Secret
A much more open and energetic nose – complex, perfumed and interesting – yes! Mineral, large scale – ooh this is super – so much more flamboyant today than the Montmains – it’s the essence of terroir and beautifully textured. What a simply excellent wine – well done !!