Tasted with Philippe Goulley in (flooded!) La Chapelle Vaupelteigne, 12 March 2024.
Domaine Jean Goulley
11 bis Rue de la Vallée des Rosiers
89800 La Chapelle Vaupelteigne
Tel: +33 3 86 42 80 85
www.chablisbio.com
Philippe Goulley took on his father’s domaine – vines coming from the Tremblay side of the family – all are cousins; Gerard Tremblay, Lynn Marchive (Domaine des Malandes) and Bessin-Tremblay.
Philippe was here since the 1980s working at the domaine – but his father didn’t much like his way of working – “I was the first practising organics in La Chapelle, in 1991 – it’s already over 30 years! I couldn’t understand how the premise of everything was terroir but we used so many chemicals on that land. I started with 5 ha with some Petit Chablis and some 1ers already planted – I’m retired now, it’s my daughter – who’s been working with me since 2009 – who is responsible, but she’s with her kids today. Today there are many working organically so that’s great but for many years it was just me.”
70% of the domaine’s production is exported – the UK is the largest market. The domaine is currently 19 hectares, roughly a third is planted with Petit Chablis, another third that is Chablis and the last third is 1er cru. “My father retired in 1995 and the extra vines came to the domaine at that time and were directly converted to organic farming.”
Philippe on 2022:
“I like wines that ‘alive’ like 2021 – by comparison, 2022 is an easy vintage. We harvest early to keep as much acidity as we can though.”
The wines…
Some very good wines here – the label of Philippe more oaked than the labels of Jean – stylistically when young, I prefer the latter but the greater wines seem to be the wines of Philippe – just have a little patience with those !!
2022 Petit Chablis
A slightly savoury nose – but of freshness. In the mouth – this is vibrant and really delicious – there are extra dimensions of flavour here. I love the driving direction that this finish shows – it’s so good here – it’s a great finish!
2022 Chablis
Extra volume and freshness of aroma. Large scale in the mouth – juicy and mineral. A wine that’s quite dangerous as the bottle will empty very quickly!
2022 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
This all tank – Domaine Jean Goulley – but there’s the label Philippe Goulley – and these two labels have different elevage.
Hmm – that’s good – wide, silky but energetic aroma. In the mouth more supple and concentrated – silky wine but with concentration. I’d keep it a couple of years but could drink it with clear pleasure today. It’s excellent and delicious.
2022 Chablis 1er Montmains
True Montmains.
This is deep and faintly reductive. Large scale and more structural than the MdM – slowly finishing with a mouth-watering and rather saline finish.
2022 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
True Fourchaume
A freshness of width and with slightly perfumed aromas too. Ooh – now that’s lovely – it has the extra-ripe citrus of Fourchaume but with a beautiful fluidity to the flavour – the finish slowly melts its flavour over the palate. It’s a beauty!
The labels of Philippe Goulley:
12 months in barrel – both frementations in barrel – then 3 months in tank before bottling:
Round, forward, plenty of barrel references here. Hmm, this has a beautiful energy and clarity – indeed fluidity – despite the strong barrel accent – very creamy here. It’s not my style preference but this could be a great villages wine – keep it 3-4 years to see!
Same parcel and same harvest date as the ‘Jean’ cuvée – 2.5 ha in one parcel…
Here there’s plenty of floral character – still with some barrel, but it’s less dominant than the Chablis. This has even more fluidity than the last and is less marked by the wood – it’s a great wine – keep it 5 years anyway – but I love it!
2022 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Also a freshness of aroma – barrel accented but modestly. Larger scale – the structure more visible. Here is fine concentration and a lovely intensity of flavour. The barrel is just a little more evident in this finish vs the Montmains. That’s a super wine in this style again – but I’d take the Montmains and have patience