Tasted in Meursault with Antoine Jobard, 16 October, 2023.
Domaine Antoine Jobard
2 Rue Leignon
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 26
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More reports with Domaine Antoine Jobard.
Antoine on 2023:
“The reds have now been dug out but haven’t yet been run into their barrels. Flowering was super this year, really lots of grapes – but I had some hail here in Meursault and Blagny mid-July. 45% in Blagny, 25% in Genevrières nothing in Charmes. But given the volume of grapes you can say it was a strong green harvest. The reds were a little figued – it needed a big triage here – but done well we have something good. The whites I expect could be excellent, probably the reds more variable – but they look okay for now. Will we have the balance and the density? Let’s see – but for now fingers crossed!”
Antoine on 2022:
“In 2022 we made less wine than in 2020 – but I’m not looking for 70 hl/ha!`For both colours. I’m very satisfied – I like this vintage it’s correct, balanced and ripe. Virtually the same volume as in 23. Started harvesting 25 August but with super pHs – the degrees depended on the cuvée – a bit more in the reds than the whites – but max 13.8° some of 12.5° – it was easier in 2022 to vinify I think vs the 23s – but we will need to see, I certainly have some slow wines.”
The wines…
Some great whites and like every year so far, Antoine shows that he can make great reds too!
All still 100% cork here:
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Usually from 5 parcels all from in the commune of Meursault – so could label Côte d’Or, but that’s not what his clients have habitually bought. Only bottled 3-4 days.
Ooh – here is volume and an inviting depth of aroma – and very Meursault too. Rich but mobile, becoming juicier as you head into the finish. That’s a great little Bourgogne – give it an extra chill if you want more tension! Great finishing.
2022 St.Aubin Sentier de Clous
2012 was the first vintage, 2 barrels. Came from wife’s family. Some parts were planted in 1992 and 2002 but the average vine age is 40 years.
More airy with a little tension to this width of aroma – developing a lovely floral accent. A mm of richness again but more acidulated energy and the floral note of the nose is also present in this width of flavour. Again vibrant almost dynamically finishing wine – vin dangereaux!
2022 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin
Narrower, deeper aroma – a stony fruit here. More acid-forward – you could also call that tension! Slowly, slowly fading – I have to say what a delicious wine – in this high-tension, frenetic style.
An assembly of all the domaine’s villages lieu-dits this vintage – Antoine has been testing this for a number of years and found this approach to be the most complete and complex. ‘Of course, it’s more simple for me but there are advantages to making a large cuvée – you take up less oxygen, you lose less sulfur – and I have anyway a number of separate 1ers and with the reds – I still have over 20 cuvées.’
Fine, faintly spiced – very attractive aromatic. I like the extra volume – not really padding – vs the Puligny. There’s a burst of finishing intensity here that holds in very classy style – always centre-stage. Love! Bravo!
2022 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
A part with 60-year-old vines plus some from 2009.
Hmm – another step up with an airy class mixed with pretty floral aromatics. Hmm, melting over the palate – a couple of mm of richness but the mouth-watering intensity more than adequately balances – super finishing intensity – stone fruit and even some minerality here – I love again – simply excellent wine!
2022 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots
Starting with aromatic steel but these are aromas that melt with florals to cushion the impact – lovely! Broad and very energetic, a hint of softness to carry the structure then an explosion of breadth to finish. Very faintly caramel at the end. What another super wine!
Classic, cliché beauty for this Charmes nose – what expectation I now have! Porcelein shape and texture – with such strong and so beautifully boned proportions. The finish is a dream – a great wine!
Together with Remi, part was replanted in March 2017. The vines were on the SO4 rootstock and ‘The longevity of those vines wasn’t great. And yes, we have installed the trace-heating wires here and they remain all year – it’s just the generator that is delivered and then taken away.’
The classic granular complexity – like a white Vosne – of Genevrières – here mixed with beautiful floral perfume – yes, this is the best, even if a hint of oak barrel is intruding today. Seamless, shimmering with flavour – again a mm or two of richness to pad the flavours and again with a small accent of barrel. A calmer, more contemplative wine than the Charmes and a top wine. Maybe my preference is for the Charmes today though!
Les Reds!
“Still in barrel, not yet racked but bottling by the end of November. The whites will be next year – except, of course, the already bottled Bourgogne Blanc:”
All in the commune of Pommard – about 1.5 ha. All destemmed.
A full but cushioned nose of clean ripe fruit – a lovely invitation. Actually, despite the volume and a little cushion, there’s practically perfect balance and fresh, juicy finishing flavour. Holding very impressively for the label – another top Bourgogne in 22!
2022 Volnay
From Combes
More airy and vibrant freshness to this very red-fruited nose. More direct, juicy wine – properly structured with fine high-toned flavour. A sporty ride this one – such energy – and it’s completely delicious – simply excellent wine!
2022 Beaune 1er Montrevenots
A deeper red nose. Despite the obvious freshness, here is seemingly much riper fruit. Broad across the palate and then impressively growing and growing with intensity. The fruit in this sample seems a bit ripe but I absolutely love the middle and finishing flavours of this wine – if it calms it will be a great buy!
2022 Beaune 1er Epenotes
A calmer, more airy nose – but with oh-so inviting creamy red fruit. Good shape and a hint of tannin too this time – darker fruit finishing. Subtly yet impressively long – almost growing in intensity from a quiet start.
2022 Pommard
A mix of Rue au Porc, Petit Noizons and Combe – A majority of Petits Noizons.
A width of silky, medium sized, aroma. A little like the Volnay – airy and with a different structure/architecture. Here with more concentration and less high-tension activity. This is really a beauty in its contemplative but never heavy or fat style.
2022 Pommard Epenots
Just between Grand Epenots and Pezerolles in Petit Epenots.
Like the Montrevenots there’s a barrel element and a fruit that is almost too much! But this is getting better and better with air – very impressive wine! More saline, rounder, but finishing more direct and intense – despite this wine being all over the place today! Give it time – it will undoubtedly be excellent when assembled then bottled!