Tasted in Meursault with Pierre-Henri Rougeot, 20 October 2023.
Domaine Rougeot Père et Fils
6, rue André Ropiteau
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 20 59
www.domainerougeot.com
Domaine’s Instagram
More reports for Domaine Rougeot Père et Fils
Pierre-Henri on 2023:
“It would be hard not to be happy – 2023 is a lovely vintage. The quality of the whites will be very good, fine balance and nice quantity – almost perfect grapes as they weren’t much touched by the heat – unlike the reds. There was also a hint of rot – the rain at the start of July was more than in the same period in 2021 – here and there a bit of Suzuki too – 14 August until the harvest was very hot and very dry so lots of triage needed 10-15% – 5x more than normal!”
Pierre-Henri on 2022:
“Many cuvées – 22 – I’ve never done so many. And that’s 24 cuvées with domaine and négociant sides, together. Only one has been bottled – that’s the Passetoutgrains – always done after 8 months of aging. It was also our second vintage of biodynamics after 5 years of organic certification.”
The wines…
What a simply super range from PH in 2022. Virtually all the ‘entry-level’ wines – and in both colours – I would class as great for their labels – but there’s much more too – bravo!
Just on the other side of RN in Meursault, 65-year-old vines. Racked just before harvest – as two vintages can’t fit in the cellar!
Lovely nose – such a fine nose, it reminds me of Brett brothers – a great note from me! Fruity, fine, direct, intense but never, never fat – great aligoté
Despite the middle of the village placement, this is not far from Chevaliers – usually the last harvested of the chardonnays here. Bottling maybe in March.
A deeper nose, still citrus and very vibrant – almost the backyard of the domaine near Meursault Les Chevaliers. Much more open – and architectural. Delicious finishing precisions of citrus – certainly already excellent Bourgogne – maybe great!
Near Sous la Velle
A fuller, richer, nose – plenty of ripe yellow citrus – but fresh too. Extra mouth-filling and much more generous in style – I prefer the last but here’s a great full-flavoured wine!
2022 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Grands Gouttes
Vines that are almost on the border of Puligny under Charmes – there’s soil here but also a base of limestone.
A little richness of ripe citrus again but more direct and fresh than the Monetine. Wider, more vibrant energy, wide and impressive. Holding a deliciously wide finish with lots of class.
2022 Monthelie Toisières
South-west facing but still very sunny on a limestone base. The youngest wines of the domaine – 30 years old!
Ripe but golden-style fruit with lots of energy. Broad and very saline – slowly fading – a nod to Chablis with this salinity. Very good!
2022 St.Romain En Jarrons
A biodynamic grape purchase.
Breadth of aroma again, almost silky and smoky. Vibrantly juicy and very delicious wine – an excellent St.Romain.
2022 St.Romain Combe Bazin
West-facing, 90+ yo vines – oldest of the domaine – similar exposure to the Monthelie. Next to the previous vines – it’s a steep limestone soil.
Vibrant again – really a great invitation to refresh yourself. Very mineral and with an oak accent in the finish here – which won’t last. Lovely wine.
2022 Meursault Sous la Velle
Biggest parcel of the domaine with 2.2 ha, in 4 plots, harvested in 2 days sometimes a bit more. 45-65-yo vines. On one part plenty of clay here that holds on well to water another part more limestone.
Al these aromatics are so vibrant and inviting – it’s just differences in the generosity and ripeness of the citrus fruit – here generous and ripe! Direct and beautifully textured – this slightly sweet flavour resonates for so long over the palate and into the finish.
Bought grapes and the last vintage as the ownership has changed hands here.
Extra breadth and freshness from vines, of course, next to Genevrières. Hmm – so vibrant and energetic – but also really intense. What a finish – great villages!
A biodynamic grape purchase.
Also vibrant but ripe aromas – golden like most of these not yet sulfured wines. A different more melting, slightly cushioned nose. Also so shimmeringly vibrant in this panoramic finish – great villages again!
Also in biodynamics
Beautiful more airy nose – with an extra depth – yes! Really extra depth of flavour – a hint less energy but it’s balanced by a mineral energy. Such great extra levels of complexity too – clearly more than excellent – with another level of finishing length!
2022 Meursault 1er Charmes
65-yo vines from the bottom to the middle of the vineyard.
A fine width of aroma. The flavour less generous but more fluid than the Remilly – drink this for elegance – drink the previous for depth and power. Both really excellent or more…
2022 Corton-Charlemagne
From Pernand, top of the hill so with late picking.
Fuller, creamy from the barrel. Complex, mineral – not so wide but becoming juicier and juicier and with that, wider and wider. Really open and another finish that’s quite panoramic ‘it was much tighter this morning – the air has really helped.’
Les Reds
2022 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains Les Vercherres
The only bottled wine – always done after 8 months. 12° no sulfur
Really vibrant – sort of gamay style – but different! Large but fresh and juicy – simply a super-fun wine – delicious!
2022 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Les Vaux
More chalky soil here, the vines are practically behind the cuverie of Coche-Dury. Racked two weeks ago. Maybe for bottling in January
A more meaty and saline nose – some destemming here – 30% – ‘a wine that always needs 18 months of aging.’ Mouth-filling with enviable freshness and energy again – meaty style to the fruit once more – good wine. Strong finishing…
2022 Bourgogne Les Lameroses
Clay soil, the vines in north Meursault in the direction Volnay. This pinot fin, the previous being pinot-droit.
A more aromatic nose – it’s all whole cluster but the perfume of whole cluster. Beautiful texture, fine precision too. That’s a very lovely wine…
A perfect combination of perfume and salinity – my new favourite! Easy but still with a supple concentration – a hint of tannin that will be gone in 12-18 months. Hyper elegant, delicious Beaune – great Beaune Villages.
2022 Pommard Clos des Roses
Really Rue au Porc, at the bottom of the village next to the RN74, is the lieu-dit. More gravely, sandy soil here – there’s a stream nearby. 0.9 ha. Two plantings here, they keep the pinot fin for the domaine.
A nose that’s forward, round, indeed generous. Wide-screen, juicy – more overt acidity here – but nothing ‘pointy’ about this acidity. Fresh and very juicy – always with a depth of perfume to these flavours.
2022 Volnay 1er Santenots
Just below the Clos des Santenots in Santenots Dessous
A broad nose of darker fruit and salinity. A more direct than melting style of flavour vs the width of the previous Pommard. Middle and finishing density to this flavour that needs to open out – but all quietly impressive!
A few contract wines – négoce – labelled PH Rougeot:
2022 Côte de Nuits Villages La Plante au Bois
From Comblanchien, mid-slope, pinot fin. Much deeper colour – almost purple at the edge – the first harvest here on 27 August. ‘It always needs 2 years in bottle.’
A nose of depth that slowly, with air, starts to offer some violet flowers. Mouth-filling, lots of tannin frames this flavour – slightly drying – but with almost no grain. Impressive wine – and of course for keeping! Wonderful finishing complexity to remember it by…
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin En Reniard
35-year-old vines on limestone, direction Morey, the vines below the RN74 and Aux Etelois. It’s the last vintage for this as the owner didn’t want to make the move to organic…
Airy but here with some herbal aspects of the whole clusters. In the mouth too – a wine that’s showing it’s elevage choices – but also a wine with energy and juicy fruit – I’d be waiting for 5 years to see how it develops – how complex and interesting the currently more herbed complexity will become – I like the shape of this though – I’m quite positive!
From Ladoix – les Paulands – but can’t label it so… 🙂
Ooh, but the stems are beautifully integrated here – what a wonderful aroma. Broad, athletic muscle, beautifully sculpted. So elegantly finishing. Great Corton!