Tasted in Puligny-Montrachet with Jacqueline and Matthieu Collardot, 21 November 2023.
Domaine Thomas-Collardot
4 Rue de Poiseul
21190 Puligny-Montrachet
Tel: +33 6 23 76 92 51
www.domaine-thomas-collardot.com
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More reports with Domaine Thomas-Collardot
Jacqueline & Matthieu on 2023 & 2022:
“I think that we are very happy with 2023 – it’s almost the same harvest volume as in 2022. And with the 2023s all the wines of the domaine will be labelled organic. 2022 was a bit of a struggle with the pH – the maturity of the grapes was good but we still chaptalised a little – which we’d rather do than acidify. For the 23s though perfect pH and degrees. 2022 was a warm vintage but we kept a good spine of acidity – they are full bodied wines but with nice structure.”
The wines:
Delicious wines – as frankly every year. It’s always a pleasure to taste with these happy people!
“Corks from Trescases and to-date, we’ve no returns and, in the end, we like cork – it’s something that’s alive!” All elevage was in 350-litre barrels with about 50% new oak – January bottings for the first wines and February for the villages and 1ers:
Orches – 1992 vines converting to bio – a contract.
A maison wine with very pretty freshness. Direct, very pretty – intense but without hard edges – broad and intense at the same time – finishing great – that’s a brilliant Aligoté
2022 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Plante des Champs
Cote d’Or on the back label. The young vines with low yields, here was previously planted with 1930’s aligoté…
A hint of rounding oak on the nose. Larger and deeper flavoured too – broad, delicious, cushioned with a little finishing sweet barrel – delicious wine but wait a year for the oak.
2022 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay Petit Poiriers
All from the commune of Puligny.
More depth and breadth with a little sizzle of citrus aroma. In the mouth too there’s this sizzle of citrus energy and intensity this is very lovely
2022 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc
From Orches the other ‘maison’ wine.
Nice freshness and still perfumed – my favourite nose so far. Intense – again an intensity from the acidity but a bit more pronounced. Some oak too – both not yet fully integrated – give it a year.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Houlières
Direction Chassagne, made from 35-year-old vines.
Direct with such a faint citrus – but so inviting. Plenty of volume and more ‘together’ for the flavours and structures – elegant but not missing any Puligny tension.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet Au Paupillot
Always plenty of water on the soil here as there are sources in the vines above. On the bottom road to Meursault, planted in 1974
Hmm, a little less width, a little more depth – just a hint more intense too. Really broad, supple and silky – the oak more present and contributing to that. Really broad and mobile finishing. That’s a top finish.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet Derrière la Velle
Planted in 1962, 15 years older than the last, always small concentrated grapes, north-south planted vs East-West of the last.
A bit of reduction to this nose – with air, properly fading. Breadth, rounder, a bit more generous in style – that’s a tasty wine.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet Rue au Vaches
The second year for this cuvée – before they sold the grapes. ‘We’re happy to have largely moved to the larger format barrels for elevage – 350s – of course, we still have some 228s – but it’s the volume that controlled that in 2022.’
Fresher, no reduction and a pretty citrus element here too. Silky, also generous but here with more energy and really great texture – tons of concentration/density here. Really very persistent.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes
Depth from the faintest of reduction. Also plenty of concentration but here with extra energy to carry it – extending in to a long and direct finish – keep it a year or two though!
2 parcels, the younger 35 years old, the other planted between 1960-62
Hmm, finer width and come complexity here too. Hmm – so beautiful in the mouth – volume, clarity and energy – the oak apparent so wait for 2 years. I love it! Great villages!
All the villages and both 1ers assembled – A little more volume of this in 2022.
Airy but there’s volume there too. Hmm – volume but seemingly more structure – here’s a wine with tons of concentration and a great finish for a villages. Great villages.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Hammeau de Blagny
The vines just above Puligny 1er Truffière.
Fresh yellow citrus elegance but with floral notes too. Also a wine of concentration – panoramic width. Almost super concentrated in the middle without becoming heavy – a super finish but wait 2-3 years! Super wine.
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
South part in Au Chaniots (noted on the label) next to En la Richarde, there’s plenty of soil here.
A more vertical nose but with overt floral references as top notes. Extra fluidity in this shape and flavours – really intense finishing. Concentrated but with a more fluid balance in the finish – Simply excellent – even for Folatières – I could drink a glass of this now!
2022 Côteaux Bourgiugnone Le Pierreaux (Rouge)
Gamay-Pinot 30-70, all the stems, a short cool maceration and very little pigeage.
A vibrant and intense width of ripe fruit energy. Volume and energy again. The finish narrow but long and delicious fading with berry fruit…