Tasted in Chassagne with Thibault Morey, 12 October 2023.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet
6 Place du Grand Four
21190 Chassagne-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 31 71
www.domainemoreycoffinet.com
More reports for Domaine Morey-Coffinet.
Thibault on 2023:
“The quantity was good but the nice surprise was the quality – I have a few vines that are sensitive to oïdium and it’s always a concern – but happy!”
Thibault on 2022:
“A little less volume than 2023 – actually about a similar in volume 2020 – the dryness of course reduced what we had – but 10-15% only and it was the young vines with not so developed roots that were most affected. In the cellar our fermentations were fine – I usually start them in tank before moving to barrel – it’s easier to control in tank at the start too – I often use remontage like for the reds at this stage!”
The wines:
What a wonderful range of delicious wines from Thibault – here and there worth a special search to find!
The Bourgognes and two Chassagnes have been bottled – the reds are racked one month so will be bottled quite soon. The whites are fining and will probably be done November-December. All-natural cork seals, with NdTec for the grand crus – “For me it’s non-negotiable! With the evolution in the market I don’t think the cork quality has been higher than now – it would be a shame to change them,” says Thibault.
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Côte d’Or
All vines in the commune of Chassagne
A fine fresh red fruit nose – very appealing. Excellent silky texture before a little tannin shows its hand – hardly grained though. Broad and juicy with a little structure finely lingering flavour. More than very good – fine clarity here – wait 12-24 months.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chambres
There are two cuvées here… Pinot Fin about 15 years old with deep soils in the flats of Chassagne.
Deeper, faintly spiced dark fruit that becomes perfumed. Fluid, but with intensity, fine texture and certainly a tannin that grows but then with a flavour that bursts across the palate into the finish – dark fruit here with a hint of licorice. I love but I would still be waiting a couple of years to start my case. Really, excellent villages
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes Vieilles-Vignes
In this case a parcel of 60-year-old vines. This is a 1 hectare parcel which planted half red and half white.
A more airy nose – today you have to look harder for these aromas – but they are fine. Less direct – here is quite some width of flavour – also with fine fluidity. The tannin is micro-grained giving a velvet impression. This potentially classier wine but my preference today would be the extra excitement of the first wine – in 5 years this will likely be the choice with it’s fine and broad finishing flavours.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
From Francement at the southern end.
This nose starts with tighter top notes but a very attractive depth – and width. More energy but just a little extra dry tannin – the grain is invisible. Mouth-filling wine but like those that preceded it with a really good fluidity. 5+ years for this but it’s really super and has impressive finishing detail.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean.
The old original section, just this domaine and Domaine Paul Pillot are here.
A fine and open nose – quite airy red fruit but with ever-more detail as you search. A juicy, fluid wine – a little more direct than the Morgeot – complex, open with modest intensity and apparent concentration – but far from modest flavour – it will be delicious and you can certainly drink it before the Morgeot, I’m really enjoying this finish!
Les Blancs:
2022 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côte d’Or
Three vineyards; Santenay, Puligny – the Lavoir – and the bottom of Chassagne. 35, 20 and 10 years old.
A good mineral attack here – fine clarity too. Easy over the palate but with an almost sparkling clarity. Easy finishing. Good wine!
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet
Chaumes, Charières and Lombardes – older vines than the Bourgogne
Directly there’s more of an embrace from this nose, almost a textural depth to the more complex aromas – it’s super. Broad, clean, delicious flavours that sweep over the palate – even a fine grain of tannin too. The finishing flavour has both depth and persistence. This is a very fine villages – and delicious!
Direction Vide Bourse on the Puligny side of the Route Nationale.
Ooh – what a nose – brilliant clarity and depth – not so wide as the previous but with extra perfumed top notes – top. In the mouth too, this announces its presence with clean mouth-filling flavour, and the fluidity of its delivery. Clean but broad – involving – finishing flavours. A wine of elegance but super elegance – bravo!
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er en Fairendes
Of course, in Morgeot – Second vintage with the young vines. We’d lost half the leaves due to dryness with these young vines in 22.
A hint more width vs the Houllières and again a fine clarity of aroma – equally perfumed if a little shy today. The proportions and clarity are super – also not a wine of intense concentration and perhaps a hint soft at the edges today but a delicious wine again of purity and elegance and hold its finish well.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er en Caillerets
A long line of vines in two parts, 0.65 ha
Today showing a vertical aromatic – depth and height but more limited width – attractively vertical though! Instantly more detail and intensity vs the Fairendes, a flavour that flows over the palate, juicily enlarging as you head to the finish. Then the finish is a succession of juicy waves that seem held with a little tannic bitters – citrus skin. That’s a delicious and engaging wine – potentially an excellent one.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
A little more width and force behind these aromas – a complexity of (citrus) agrume here. Extra width and energy across the palate – such an easy moreish style to this wine too. The first wine where I sense a hint of barrel but very modestly so. The finish sweet and long – lovely, delicious wine.
2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er En Remilly
70-year-old vines but an area that also suffered badly from the dryness of the vintage – planted almost directly on the rocks
A depth of ripe citrus overlays by a white flower note – it’s quite a different aroma to the previous wines. Super shape in the mouth though – this concentrated wine showing a few more mm of cushion but still with a balancing incisive character. The finish is not the most demonstrative but it’s holding impressively- only very slowly fading. A simply excellent Chassagne!
This still in barrel…
Not a large scale nose but one of super freshness – an implied clarity and a reason to drink! Fluidity but also concentration – they need each other – it makes a great combination! Also a hint of barrel here but still not much. A round and calm middle flavour and then a finishing width – a haunting width. Yes!
Like the previous in barrel – a new Stockinger.
This nose is more about a subtle blend of the barrel and a hint of reduction today – but there’s a silky, more floral width too. Beautifully proportioned in the mouth with detail, clarity and fluid mobile style. Simply a beautiful thing – if the last wine might be great, this is certainly great – what a captivating finish!
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Pucelles
27 years old the vines here now. The small parcels of the domaines are now high trained and worked by horse. This has been in a ‘jar’ since July.
The first wine with a classic note from the barrel – the last was a different, Stockinger, note – with a depth of yellow citrus. A different architecture – a shape with much lithe muscle – juicy, layered flavours in the middle. Finishing sweetly – but not too sweet. The finish fading very slowly. A super wine but here I prefer the Chassagnes!
From the Chassagne side, close to the only tree in the vineyard! ‘Still young vines – 26 years old.’
The width of aroma is king here today – and what an impressive and complex, and inviting, width this is – subtly suggesting a faint reduction too. Top! The shape, the open style, the structure without any harshness – clearly a next step above the Pucelles, edged with a citrus bitter. Excellent Bâtard and a great wine.
For the road…
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée
Some colour. A small patina of maturity for this wine – lovely detail. Mouth-filling, slowly moving across the palate – not the most invigorating acidity – but enough! Really complex already. The finish perhaps fading slightly quicker than the 22s tasted before but a delicious wine still with a good finishing grain of tannin. I would already be drinking these with pleasure at home.
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchots de Dessous
The colour showing a little age but the aromatics are of complexity and even a faint suggestion of reduction – that’s a very lovely invitation to drink. Timeless across the palate; mineral, complex, mobile, a suggestion of age-related caramel, and still a faint grain of tannin. Bright and broad over the palate in the finish with more fine intensity than the previous 2018. “We had hail here in 2015 – the high 1ers – but not in 2012 like in Volnay to Beaune.“
There is one response to “Morey-Coffinet – 2022”
Blanchots de Dessous 1er Cru ? How one letter too many (o) can make a difference. 😉
And no English speakers can hear the difference 🙂