Well the cork is in great shape; long, flexible and not a hint of seepage. Medium garnet red. The nose is a little dense – there’s depth certainly, but it’s a little cooked and monolithic – not really the elegance or complexity of Musigny to start with, but slowly a more penetrating and pure red fruit nose comes centre-stage – after 2 hours it’s quite engaging. There is plenty of balance, understated slightly astringent tannin and a finishing note that is mineral with a hint of tannic bitterness – well one thing’s for sure; this is far from a mature wine. In the end I drank it whilst admiring certain aspects of it but without ever warming to it. The flavours are certainly more mineral than fruit influenced and it’s far from a thing of beauty right now – actually it’s still an ugly duckling – but if I had a second bottle in such good condition I wouldn’t open it for at least another 5 years.

Medium red with brick highlights. The nose is an unusual, but not unpleasant, mixture of oxtail soup (!) and stewed rhubarb. Some sweetness and fruit but slightly outweighed by the punchy acidity and tannins. With food the tables are turned and all falls into place. There’s no lack of fruit and this wine exhibits a simply fantastic length. 2-3 minutes and it’s still going. Excellent, head and shoulders above any other 1994 I’ve tasted.