My last of these, the previous two were rather oxidised. Medium gold. The nose has hints of toffee – a sort of tarte tartin – lots of depth, and yes it’s just tending to oxidation, but to this minor extent I can live with it. Width, decent acidity and good intensity. The length has hints of oxidative notes that to a certain extent compromise the finish but there are also nice creamy hints with waxy lanolin. Drinkable.

Medium straw colour. The nose shows oxidative notes, nuts and a hint of lanolin. In the mouth the texture is good – concentrated and silky – intense, dry, very well balanced, but the flavour that obscures much is an oxidative one. Drinkable – but without joy – probably opened 6-12 months too late and, if anything, was slightly worse on day 2…

Medium-plus golden colour. Despite the colour, there is no trace of oxidation here, rather it is forward but well integrated sweet brioche oak, behind is a good, freshly mineral base. Concentrated, silkily, waxily smooth texture. The acidity is understated and the flavours are a mix of the mineral and savoury. Very mineral finish that is also very long. This should be at it’s best in another 4 or 5 years, but it did rather on day1 – day two was even better!

Drunk directly following Drouhin’s 02 Puligny Clos de la Garenne. This is just a little darker yellow. The nose frankly assaults your senses with wide, brawny notes of flowers, wet wool, creamy vanilla and just a little honey. The palate is likewise, no model of restraint; muscled, rippling acidity wrapped in a slightly buttery fatness but somehow also an edge of minerality that shows on the long finish. It’s a show of muscles here, but it’s a very impressive show.