Medium-plus colour. The nose shows herbal hints of mint and a faint cedar, but it’s hard to say if it’s part of the the 04 character, whatever, it’s on a very low level, overall a liitle floral and not too dense, eventually it delivers a nice acid cherry aroma. Fresh, with just a little astringency to the tannin. There is just enough sweetness to carry what would otherwise be mouth-puckering acidity. Not quite as clunky as the Clos St.Jacques currently shows and the good fruit flavour comes through well in the finish. Almost good.

Medium colour. High-toned, slight pickle aroma over a meatier base. The acidity is to the fore and like the nose, it’s not the finest type, it has a balsamic aspect. Whilst the acidity dominates, there are hints of what this wine was, and what it could have been – a long, long old-vine creaminess. It retains some drinkability, but that drinking window is almost closed. Day two it’s certainly better. the volatile element mainly gone – but that’s the nature of volatility

Drank this one directly after Gambal’s Chambolle 1er Gruenchers of the same vintage. Slightly deeper and younger colour than the 1er Cru. The nose has more intensity and a dried fruit aspect to the intense red fruits, perhaps the high tones on the nose are slightly soapy. Instantly more demonstrative than the Gruenchers, but less impact on the mid-palate. Good length that’s helped by the acidity. This is a really super villages – certainly not overshadowed by ther 1er Cru – but then it costs the same…