Deeper colour again. A deeper nose to match, with glossy cherry notes that are much closer to black fruit than any other wine. More structure, this is the only wine in the cave that shows a little grain to the tannin. It’s a bold yet rather tight wine, surprisingly Louis-Michel said he opened this about 6 hours earlier and it’s quite open vs then! Again super length – more linear in character than the Chaumes.

Medium colour. The nose is totally different to all the other wines – slightly reductive – in the background, there’s red fruit that grows in prominence in the glass, lovely purity, the nose becomes higher toned with time. Louis-Michel thinks this reductive aspect is down to the terroir, he says that the 2002 behaved in exactly the same way. Eventually develops a coffee note on the nose. Poised, silky palate that’s very fruit forward – the essence of rich red cherries.

Whilst less forward than the 2003 Reignots, the nose shows a distinct family resemblance. Not just a beautiful depth to the fruit but also width too. It’s ripe fruit is very tightly wound and really needs an hour or two in a decanter. Slowly develops a nice coffee note. Very, very good.