2005

2005 Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet

By billn on June 15, 2011

Medium golden colour. The first notes on the nose were – ouch – of Jerez, I left the bottle for five or six hours. On returning there’s merely a suggestion of that oxidative note, more to the fore is dense core of aroma that smells of old oak and some suggestions of mature aromas. Full in the mouth, flavour growing in the mid-palate with cool acidity; the flavour is intense and very long, some creamy and toffee elements too – though it’s not particularly moreish. Day two it’s a little (not lots) better, still with a hint of oxidation. Day three there is none, perhaps the colour is also more yellow than gold. Now it has creamy depth with a hint of lanolin (normally I expect this on 15+ year-old wine). In the mouth it’s full and powerful a hint toffeed and still maybe not the greatest mid-palate flavour – but for the first time I’ve topped up my glass. So, this Chevalier is in an awful place right now. Accepted there were sherry aromas when opened, and even on day two. But no-one tasting this wine on day 3 would say it was premoxed, it has become cleaner every day; it was on the same level after 72 hours (open) as after 48 – just that rather frumpy presentation that many 05s show.

2005 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares

By billn on May 07, 2011

Popped and poured. Medium-plus colour. The nose has a hint of Bordeaux about it with a slightly mineral, cigar-box aroma; but slowly it releases a blend of violet flowers and flashes of gorgeously sexy red and blackberry fruit. In the mouth this has a very understated layer of velvety tannin; otherwise it is immaculately smooth and polished, slightly linear and shows a wonderful mid-palate intensity. The flavour in the finish is dark and concentrated, reminding me again of that half mineral – half cigar-box impression. the flavour easily hangs on for over a minute. Day two the last half a glass is very tight – the natural order is restored.

2005 Bize Simon Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on January 26, 2011

Deep, dense aromas – lack a big bag of children’s sweets. Full, round, very silky. A lovely mid-palate ‘growth’ of flavour. Just at the moment I’d look for the impression of a bit more freshness (I’m the same with most 05s), but maybe that will come as the density delineates. Clearly a wine to wait for.

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis Bougros

By billn on March 01, 2010

Pale yellow. Round and wide, still a little brioche and smooth ripe fruit. There’s a fatness that seems borne from less than generous acidity, yet your mouth waters in the good finish all the same. Same as when last tasted, it’s very rich but it’s sweet and relatively powerful. If anything it’s slightly better performing than the last bottle – Yum.

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

A precociously forward nose – it hits you before your nose even reaches into the glass. Ignoring the complex, spicy oak character – and there is a lot of it – the core of the nose is a trip through red, down to black fruit, lower down it is a mineral, coal-like effect. Very high quality indeed. Eventually it takes on coffee, chocolate and a subtle creamyness. This is just a little tighter and with less fireworks than last time, it’s lost a little of the buttery texture (a good thing!), but the frame and proportions of the wine are awesome. Perfect balance, mineral, multi-dimensional and long. It’s drinking fine now, but this will be more and more stunning as it develops – what price one of these when it nears its 40th birthday!

2005 Lamblin et Fils Chablis Vaudesir

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium yellow colour. The nose has hints of roast hazelnut, a little volatility, perhaps marzipan too, later I think it’s more high-toned, citrus fruit than volatility. A little oily texture, but a certain minerality too. Good balance then this wine’s peak selling point – a super burst of dimension in the mid-palate with a length to match. This wine is far from a cheaply priced grand cru, but has a lot going for it; it’s a decent price and it’s very, very tasty – nothing else needed here!

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis Bougros

By on June 30, 2009 #asides

Pale yellow. A round nose that’s just fresh enough, has a little brioche and subdued but smooth and seemingly ripe fruit below. Maybe it’s just a little fatter, richer that I consider perfect for GC Chablis, but it has the requisite mineral core and a late-arriving mouth-watering finish. Sweetly intense and quite pretty. The purchase price was a bargain and I’d buy more at the price – about half the current Fevre Bougros price!

2005 Lambrays Clos des Lambrays

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour, edged with purple. High-toned, and initially slightly diffuse and alcoholic but the aromas show a great depth of brooding fruit. Absolutely mouth-filling and complex. Very. very long with a mineral vein – superbly long – fantastic.

2005 Clos de Tart Clos de Tart

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Deep colour. Very tight aromas with dark, creamily oaked fruit notes at the core, slowly releasing raspberry notes. A little prickly carbon dioxide then tongue saturating flavours of coffee and roast nuts. Lots of structure, but balance too. As it loses the CO2 it becomes close to a complete wine.

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