1998

1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet

By billn on November 15, 2018

Just a little more colour than the 2008. More vibration of sous bois and spicy white chocolate. Ooh – extra volume, mineral, very energetic but a more composed energy. So wide, slightly saline – ooh – in a great place right now…

1998 Maume Mazis-Chambertin

By billn on October 16, 2018

Ooh – here’s a forward nose – lots of volume – with plenty of herb in a large expanse of complexity. Cushioned depth to the palate, considerable concentration, still a grain of tannin. Layered, intense, with waves of flavour, faintly bitter and saline. Never a sweet wine, never a comforting wine – but frankly who cares, this is really super, indeed invigorating stuff.

1998 Camus Chambertin

By billn on January 08, 2012

An auction purchase, but the bottles look in perfect condition – twirling capsules too – though I expected wax. Medium-plus colour with just a little amber at the rim. The nose has plenty of depth, understated leafy forest floor and a faint creamy edge to the muscled, dark-red fruit. With time the nose fills out with a hint of mushroom and an even clearer dark-red berry fruit. In the mouth this is full, reasonably intense and with a large-scaled flavour profile in the mid-palate. The length is understated but for all that, very impressive. The tannin is relatively faint but quite fine and still enveloping, perhaps adding to a little bitter-chocolate impression to the fruit in the mid-palate. And as a direct counterpoint? The Eugénie VR Brûlées is smoother, but has less scale and flavour dimension, it may be more elegant, but it seems there’s only so much you can extract from that terroir – despite charging almost 3x the price for it!

1998 Guyon Antonin (Hyppolite Thevenot) Corton-Charlemagne

By billn on December 11, 2010

Deep colour. One sniff of the nose and I’m smiling; there are the lanolin aromas of an even older wine, and perhaps the merest suggestion of something oxidativebut it’s an interesting complexity – no more – so no complaints. Good acidity and nice intensity too – actually the flavour is very long too. There isn’t the seemless, smooth-ness of a very good vintage but this is a very nice drink. I don’t recommend the odds of taking a replacement bottle, but I’ll happily accept what this one offers.

1998 Potel Nicolas Romanée Saint-Vivant

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Double-decanted, poured after an hour. Plenty of lumpy sediment but no fine stuff to cloud things. The nose needs another 30 minutes to open, but it becomes wide and very Vosne; spicy, leafy, somehow ‘warm’ and textured smelling – overall it’s very good though not necessarily better than a (very) good 1er cru. The acidity is slightly forward – though not excessive – no harsh or astringent tannin, just a latent velvet edge. The flavours are a little tart but there’s a slowly deepening intensity in the mid-palate and a width that’s faintly cream-edged. Very good, if not great length. There is no primary fruit here, but it’s a wine that I would leave for at least another 5 or 6 in the cellar. It’s a reasonable grand cru, but today it’s far from a great RSV. This experience was not spoiled by the cork, only by opening the bottle at least 5 years too early…

1998 Fevre William Chablis Le Clos

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

Medium-plus yellow – not quite a golden colour. The nose has a little matchstick and oak, it’s quite dense, the fruit is ripe though not tropical. Decently soft, slightly waxy texture with an impression of flavour from the matchstick aromas. I would say that the only obvious mineral aspect is the finish, but it’s very long and creamy. Dense with good enough acidity. This is actually rather good – though bought for peanuts 8-or-so years ago – yet I have the impression it would have been even better in a few more years.

1998 Jadot Louis Corton-Charlemagne

By on November 30, 2009 #asides

The first pour – ooh quite light colour – but the more you pour, it seems to get darker much faster than expected. The end colour is similar to the 98 Boillot. The nose starts with an unusual ‘warm wool’ aroma, perhaps a little oaky too – but not a hint of oxidation. The wool fades to leave width wafts of ripe fruit – not that much maturity, but the last drops almost have that volatile edge of a redcurranty red-wine. In the mouth, it has intensity, but keep it on your tongue and it bursts with interest and complexity. Very good length. Excellent!

1998 Jadot Louis Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red – no obvious age. The nose on first pour is reticent; a little bramble fruit but not much else. Without ever becoming effusive, the nose builds a core of dark fruit, slowly releasing finer red-fruit notes and even gives a hint of gingerbread. In the mouth it has excellent freshness, tempered by concentration and width without apparent weight. Just a faint fatness covers tannin that still offers a slight astringency. The length is impressive though hardly ‘impactful’. I left the wine for another hour. On return the wine is more open, mineral and showing much more depth of dark fruit on the nose. In the mouth there seems to be more concentration and intensity – I actually left the bottle in the refrigerator as the room was very warm – I think it made all the difference. It’s more together, more intense and the dark flavours infuse the tongue. I was wavering at first, but keep this wine below 18°C and you well get the return for your outlay. Impressive, yet it will be better in 5-10!

1998 Mugnier J-F Musigny

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Opened 2 yours before the first pour. Medium colour – ruby but still with cherry-red accents. The nose is deeper and darker than that of the Bonnes-Mares, but less wide. Slowly in the glass the aromas gain width and dimension – I would say very fine. In the mouth my first impression is that it’s a little hard and tight; in tandem with the nose it slowly unwinds, softens and adds width. Another wine where the tannin hardly warrants a mention, though the quality of the wide and creamy finish was streets ahead of the Bonnes-Mares. In this context it was a fine wine, but one that didn’t ‘wow’.

Burgundy Report

Translate »

You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser to view this website correctly: https://browsehappy.com/;