The second bottle from this ‘cache’. The nose is completely lovely; a reasonabe depth but sweet and understatedly creamy. The fruit doesn’t (at least to start with) show any of the roasted character I noted with bottle 1. Silky and clean, the last impression is a little astringency though not much obvious tannin to support that. Mineral and with good acidity – the mouthwatering flavour lasts long in the mouth but always majoring on the mineral. Not super-intense, but certainly enjoyable.
1989
1989 Dauphin Cave du Bonnes-Mares
Medium colour. There is a hint of roasted to the fruit but generally this is not so bad, rounded with a faint pot-pourri note. The fruit is ripe enough and actually shows a good mineral tension; not the last word in intensity, but not bad either. The acidity is just fine and you can still get a few grains of tannin too. Probably not an exceptional Bonnes-Mares, but a nice enough bottle.
1989 Latour Louis Echézeaux
The bottle is a heavy one – statement bottles are not just the current bling. The capsule spins and the cork comes out in almost 3 pieces – fortunately none into the bottle. On pouring there’s quite a mahogany caste to this wine, but it looks to retain a nice core of of clear red colour in the glass. The nose starts quite understatedly, a little sweet musk, low-level turned leaves – perhaps there’s something to be said for flash pasteurisation in killing the brett. Slightly thick texture, the acidity starts with a slighly harsh edge but I’m impressed by the burst of energy and flavour in the mid-palate. If I’m honest the acidity adds a touch of austerity rather than delivering a mortal wound, though I’m not convinced enough to splash the cash for the meaining bottle. The last third is consumed on day two and if not perfect, it’s just a little softened with a chocolate depth and it lingers well. I’d rebuy on day two…
1989 Maume Mazis-Chambertin
Medium, medium-plus colour. High tones over a creamy base – slowly evolves cream before finally a little ripe fruit peaks through. A quiet entry builds in the mouth. Round and with (for the first time) creamy fruit. This has super length and still some tannin to resolve – a little plump, but excellent.
1989 Leflaive Olivier Corton-Charlemagne
1989 Latour Louis Corton Château Corton Grancey
Looks relatively pale as you pour the wine, but gives a surprisingly deep amber/brown in the glass. The nose seems to be of a much more ancient vintage than 89, but it’s sweet and a little meaty, still a little stewing, pruney fruit. The palate has depth, good acidity and still a little rasp on the (mostly) resolved tannins. It’s a perfectly mature and perfectly pleasant wine – not one to get overly excited over though.
1989 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin
We are finally starting to see some maturity in these wines: Medium ruby with an amber rim. Not pronounced, but a beautifully understated nose to fall into, red fruits, caramel, coffee and a touch of licorice too. Despite finely concentrated fruit, acidity and still prominent, drying tannins, the palate seems a little ‘flat’ after the 1991 – a super finish though. In retrospect perhaps this is still a little too young. Still very fine, but it’s up against stiff competition here.
1989 Tollot-Beaut Corton Bressandes
1989 Thomas-Moillard Romanée Saint-Vivant
Mature looking but with sufficient deep colour to make the age hard to determine. The nose . . . . . chocolate cherry liqueurs(!) and really sweet, almost intoxicating. The palate, still has really good acidity and lots of furry tannin. Tons of depth to the fruit, with the finish continuing to develop for the first hour the bottle was open. Worth much more than the €58 paid – outstanding – and years of life ahead of it.