Medium golden colour. The first notes on the nose were – ouch – of Jerez, I left the bottle for five or six hours. On returning there’s merely a suggestion of that oxidative note, more to the fore is dense core of aroma that smells of old oak and some suggestions of mature aromas. Full in the mouth, flavour growing in the mid-palate with cool acidity; the flavour is intense and very long, some creamy and toffee elements too – though it’s not particularly moreish. Day two it’s a little (not lots) better, still with a hint of oxidation. Day three there is none, perhaps the colour is also more yellow than gold. Now it has creamy depth with a hint of lanolin (normally I expect this on 15+ year-old wine). In the mouth it’s full and powerful a hint toffeed and still maybe not the greatest mid-palate flavour – but for the first time I’ve topped up my glass. So, this Chevalier is in an awful place right now. Accepted there were sherry aromas when opened, and even on day two. But no-one tasting this wine on day 3 would say it was premoxed, it has become cleaner every day; it was on the same level after 72 hours (open) as after 48 – just that rather frumpy presentation that many 05s show.
Leflaive
2009 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2009 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
2006 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
1997 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
2000 Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet
Not so much full-on oak on the nose as many grand crus from Leflaive, but plenty of toasty bread, tight fruit and eventually higher alcoholic notes. In the mouth my first impression is disappointment; soft, rather unfocused but good acidity. The wine then wakes a little with an impressive burst of complexity on the mid-palate that holds into a long – if rather oak driven – finish. It’s long and has some undoubted complexity but maybe I’ve caught it on a bad day as there’s no real focus or spark.
2002 Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet
The colour is just a faint shade deeper than the Bienvenues. Similar oaky depth to the nose but rounder in shape, slowly lets some higher tones escape. An extra depth on the mid-palate, more mouthwatering and certainly longer. This wine has tons of material and makes a compelling statement – really excellent.
2002 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Medium yellow colour. The nose has depth combined with a high-toned top note. Lovely texture, waxy without becoming cloying. Long, still oak tinged at the end. The mid-palate shows a high-toned profile, somewhat mineral rather than fat. Very balanced and accomplished, but missing a hint of excitement.