all change today in morey st.denis…


Important, grand cru, changes are underway today in Morey St.Denis.

It has been known, for a little while, that Jacques Devauges will be leaving Clos de Tart – after (in my opinion) too short a tenure. I believe that Jacques liberated the wine of Clos de Tart – so oft a wine that was constrained by its oak. I wholeheartedly believe that it’s one of Burgundy’s great wines but that the oak really meant that performance was highly variable – you shouldn’t drink it for at least 20 years has been my experience – the 96-98 are great now but not the 99 and younger – at least not consistently.

Jacques officially leaves Clos de Tart today, February 26th. His successor, Alessandro Noli, is well-known as the previous winemaker at Château Grillet – also part of the Latour, Eugénie, Clos de Tart group. The Clos de Tart was a family operation when Jacques joined – but that changed relatively quickly – Jacques, however, with a nice touch, describes his successor Alessandro as “A great man!

Jacques’ next move is, officially, unknown, but there is speculation that he already has a new, grand cru, berth in Morey St.Denis – speculation that I first found to be outlandish – but it seems that there could be more than a kernel of truth. I won’t commit the speculation to paper – the parties at both locations are retaining their discretion – but the rumours seem to be true. So watch this space…

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There are 2 responses to “all change today in morey st.denis…”

  1. Stephen Dowd27th February 2019 at 3:32 amPermalinkReply

    Great picture Bill. You must have waited hours to get it. Stephen

    • billn27th February 2019 at 7:30 amPermalinkReply

      Weeks of planning to get that ‘hint of hanging out of the car window’ je ne sais croix…

  2. goughie1327th February 2019 at 8:43 amPermalinkReply

    No need necessarily to wait hours 🙂 . Those formidable ladies are sat there every day late afternoon for a few hours. We often wave to them on our way back through the village at the end of a vendange day – Herve Arlaud driving often beeps the van horn to them and calls to them from the vehicle window (have never been able to catch/translate his words !).

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