Entries from 2018

the last days…

By billn on December 07, 2018 #asides

Well, I’m still pumping out some domaine visit reports, adding them to my 2017 white burgundy report, whilst jogging, whilst making more visits, whilst chasing French garages, whilst picking up hire cars – all the usual stuff!

I’ve about 5-6 more reports to add to complete the full white report – by far my biggest ever with over 40 domaines and well over 600 wines. Oh, and Monday evening should see the return of the scooby – they had to import a part from Belgium – try telling that to a Swiss Subaru dealer – they will just laugh – or cry!
 

Burgundy’s 2017 Vintage – instalment #1 – the côte d’or whites

By billn on December 05, 2018 #reports

Online today – all you need to know about 2017 white burgundy – together with hundreds of wines tasted

Here: Burgundy Report

weekend wines, week 48 2018

By billn on December 04, 2018 #degustation

2010 Roty, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
I tasted, and loved, this way back in late 2013 – so much so that I ordered a case. Fast-forward 5 years and I eventually got it delivered – what a silly boy! Whilst I may have missed out on a few years great drinking, I’m sure that in that time I found some adequate substitutes! Based on the first two bottles – yes, this wasn’t the only one this weekend! – it seems this wine will still be drunk with great pleasure over the next couple or three years!
Medium, bright, young colour. The nose is analogous to the colour – medium, bright, pretty red fruit. Once-more the palate follows the theme – here with a lovely silky texture. Easy-drinking, pure and whilst über-drinkable – no overt signs of maturity. I think it was a fuller wine when young, but it has lost little of its drinkability.
Rebuy – Yes

2005 Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux-Monts
Fuller colour. An equally fuller and deep nose – fine-textured dark red fruit and the last vestiges of a once stronger oak. Ample – mouth-filling wine. Concentrated and well-textured – lots of volume of smooth, dark-red fruit flavour here. To borrow a word, hedonistic. Not yet complex, or mature, but delicious today, and like the nose with the faint traces of a, once, much stronger oak. The best it’s tasted since release – but still a baby…
Rebuy – Yes

#2017burgundyreport – the winemakers visited in week 48, 2018

By billn on December 01, 2018 #reports

My 2017 White Burgundy report’s not quite ‘publishing ready’ yet, but it will hit the reports page in the next few days. That hasn’t stopped the red report visits, as you can see above, I lost three domaines this week due to timing-belt issues, but I’ve still more visits than ever before – partly the reason for delay in publishing, maybe I have to do less visits next year 🙂 – so I’m sure you won’t notice!

A Burgundy Report EXTRA! subscription costs 85 Swiss Francs per year.

#2017burgundyreport – grisaille, boulevard repetitions and now some côte de nuits…

By billn on November 29, 2018 #travels in burgundy 2018

It’s a normal winter week in the Côtes – grey, and sometimes for good measure, with wet mixed into the grey. It’s not all that photogenic – particularly if you have to get wet whilst taking a grey photo! My trusty Subaru (now almost 370,000km since new!) seems to have developed a funny noise from the engine-bay – maybe a loose exhaust manifold? Anyway, fortunately it’s stable as I’ve no time to get it checked!

The temperatures are not all that cold – holding at about 7° – I hardly need my gloves for jogging, but as usual at this time of year, the best running routes are lost to the darkness, so endless repetitions of the Boulevard and other ‘lit’ areas are required – such is life!

In the cellars it is business as usual, of-course. 2017 being a much more interesting vintage than many who tasted early proclaimed. This is the first week that I’ve consistently starting entering into the Côte de Nuits – and the quality at the good addresses is more consistent than in the Côte de Beaune – at least with my small but growing sample. I’ve roughly 20 visits this week before a short weekend back home and then returning to the Côtes for more next week, and the week after!

Today a ‘trek’ south; to Rully, Mercurey and back home via Volnay…

UPDATE: Well, it didn’t quite work out like that today.

‘Cleaner’ weather for sure – indeed almost blue sky – but also a palpable lack of a Subaru – timing-belt was kaputt – and only 3 weeks after a service too! I could have continued driving, but then there would probably have been a destroyed engine – it was best to stop…

So, not only did I have to arrange for the car to be towed away, I had to cancel my trip to Rully, Mercurey and Volnay – but then the Volnay domaine came back to me – ‘Oh that’s okay – we can pick you up in Beaune!‘ Now how’s that for service? – and their wines were great too – what a relief!

weekend wines, week 47 2018

By billn on November 27, 2018 #degustation

Wow – week 47 done already – where did all that time go? Anyway, two wines that doubly underscore the fabulous utility of less well-known appellations – Savigny white and Ladoix red, anyone?

2016 Serrigny, Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc
What a little beauty! Fresh, faintly phenolic like a good Chablis, depth and zing like a great Savigny blanc – Did I ever say how much I enjoy Savigny whites? – I probably did! Simply excellent wine – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2005 G&P Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
The nose is good but a little pinched – it’s not yet lighting my fire. The palate on the other hand is muscular but lithe, silky but profound – the fruit is a dream. This wine is presumably still young as it’s never been better than now – except, maybe, the nose. Simply great wine and a pleasure to drink the bottle dry in one evening!
Rebuy – Yes

icymi – week 47 2018…

By billn on November 24, 2018 #in case you missed it

Just a couple this week:

  • 2017_Burgundies_could_ease_sky-high_prices_ahead_of_Brexit
    Distilling a vintage into a few words is never easy – this is not so bad…
  • the-paradox-of-burgundy
    Oxidisation – a new word for me – but ‘banal: weary, stale, flat and unprofitable’ – well we’ve all been there, eh? This article is also the first time I even considered that Nathalie Tollot might be the ‘Florence Nightingale of vigneronnes’ – you have been warned…

the tastevinage majors of 2018…

By billn on November 23, 2018 #asides

For this ‘award’ just twenty wines were chosen from 1,033 that were submitted to blind taste in 2018:

  • CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BRUT BLANC – Maison Veuve AMBAL
  • BOURGOGNE VÉZELAY 2015 – CAVE HENRY DE VÉZELAY
  • RULLY PREMIER CRU – RABOURCÉ 2017 – DOMAINE MANIGLEY
  • CHABLIS PREMIER CRU VAILLONS 2016 – DOMAINE GUY ROBIN
  • CHABLIS PREMIER CRU VAILLON 2005 – DOMAINE DANIEL-ÉTIENNE DEFAIX
  • BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR 2017 – MAISON ALBERT BICHOT
  • BROUILLY 2017 LES MAISONS NEUVES – DOMAINE JAMBON PÈRE & FILS
  • SANTENAY 2017 LES PRARONS – DOMAINE ROUX PÈRE & FILS
  • MARANGES 2016 – BOUCHARD AÎNÉ & FILS
  • SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 2016 – DOMAINE JEAN-JACQUES GIRARD
  • LADOIX 2016 EN NAGET – MONOPOLE – DOMAINE MARATRAY-DUBREUIL
  • NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 2016 – MAISON ROPITEAU
  • PERNAND-VERGELESSES PREMIER CRU LES FICHOTS 2017 – DOMAINE AURÉLIE BERTHOD
  • BEAUNE-GRÈVES PREMIER CRU 2016 – MAISON PATRIARCHE PÈRE & FILS
  • FIXIN PREMIER CRU CLOS DU CHAPITRE 2016 – BOUCHARD AÎNÉ & FILS
  • NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES PREMIER CRU LES CAILLES 2016 – MAISON PATRIARCHE PÈRE & FILS
  • VOUGEOT PREMIER CRU CLOS DE LA PERRIÈRE 2016 – DOMAINE BERTAGNA
  • CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU 2016 – DOMAINE MANUEL OLIVIER
  • CORTON-PERRIERES GRAND CRU 2015 – DOMAINE MICHEL JUILLOT
  • MAZOYÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU 2011 – DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME

fourrier’s 2001 griotte, today…

By billn on November 23, 2018 #degustation

Home-made Shepherd’s Pie (for the detail-conscious, actually Cottage Pie!) so what to drink? This fell nicely to hand:

2001 Fourrier, Griotte-Chambertin
I opened this 2001 with a bit of trepidation – well, it’s said that JMF had some cork problems in this vintage – but this is in perfect shape.
Not such a big nose, a faintly spiced and roast fruit that’s slowly starting to grow some more mature dried leaf aroma and even a little (grounding) Gevrey earth. Medium bodied, with a very fine texture and an almost equally fine and complex width of flavour too. Not super long but a comforting wine that’s completely delicious, indeed excellent – How excellent? Well it didn’t last the whole evening! However, this is, for me, a prime example of why I found JMF‘s Clos St.Jacques of the era a more interesting and complex wine – I can see that the Griotte is usually better today vs his CSJ, but not 20 years ago…
Rebuy – Yes – at the original price 🙂

Burgundy Report

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