midweek wines – week 27 2018


With the help of friends:

1996 Pierre Matrot, Meursault-Charmes
I had modest expectations – and they were met! The colour is certainly older but the the nose is not super-oxidative – not in the context of a 1996, anyway. Unfortunately the modest oxidation mixes with something musty from the cork – not TCA – but anyway musty. This nose is not a beautiful thing. In the mouth it’s classic 1996 – a citric line and certainly an old chardonnay that hints at a little finishing cream. Interesting, but hardly worth 1 star from 5…
Rebuy – No

2009 Vincent Dancer, Meursault-Perrières
Hmm, a nose that starts compact but very clean, slowly building an attractive floral side too. Starting direct and mineral – this is a beauty – only with time does the depth of texture and a modest richness grow in tandem with the warming in the glass. Delicious wine.
Rebuy – Yes

1997 Château de Chorey, Beaune 1er Vignes-Franches
A nose that starts a little rustic and animale but with energy and depth too. As it breathes it cleans-up and becomes ever-more engaging and inviting – super. The palate surprises after the sweetly invigorating nose – tighter, younger, slightly structural – but balanced and tasty too. A 97 that’s not yet fully ready, but it’s close. I have the impression that this may have been quite oaky when a youngster,. but today it’s in really great shape.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Comte Liger-Belair, Echézeaux
The wine starts cold and tight, but soon lets loose a beautiful floral aroma as it warms – a deeper plum-red fruit in the middle – just getting better and better as it combines with the air, adding a modest but highly attractive musk-spice. This has never been a wine of impact and concentration – but it doesn’t need it! There is width, beautifully silky texture – cushioned yet fresh. A little background oak but also a gorgeous lingering flavour with a suggestion of minerality at its limit. Tannin is still present – but you will be forced to search for it. Essentially a wine that has been open and giving since the very beginning – never having closed – remaining a beautiful expression of the vineyard despite its relative youth. Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

2015 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
Hmm, this is showing a very appealing, almost sugared ripe-yellow citrus aroma. Open and fresh with delicious layers of well-defined flavour. Simply an excellent and sweetly delicious wine. There is already great pleasure to be found here.
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Caroline Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Champs-Gain
A much narrower nose, reductive in a vibrant, mineral, way, rather than fireworks or lit matches. The palate is the same – a different style of more direct intensity than PY’s wine, but vibrantly mineral and interesting – yet also less delicious and approachable than the St.Aubin today. An impressive wine of line and mineral interest but definitely one that’s to wait for…
Rebuy – Yes

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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