weekend wines – week 23 2018

11.6.2018billn


I see that Chézeaux have reverted to the slightly different 1990s labels with the faint image of the family house in the Clos de Chézeaux in Gevrey-Chambertin…

2015 des Chézeaux / Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
Hmm, for a 2015 there’s a lot of freshness here – a silky, round fruit is more reticent but present. In the mouth this remains a wine of surprises with its fine acidity and a much more mineral stance than I usually see. Very fine, mouth-watering, long-reaching flavours that are modest but impressively long. A wine that will age and age and at the same time shows none of the excesses of the vintage. Should I mark it down for being non-standard? I think not – returning 3 hours later to the the last third of the bottle, the air has made quite some changes to this wine; now I might consider the word opulent – for both aroma and palate – yet there is still agreat line of acidity. Bravo – but be patient or make a long carafe…
Rebuy – Yes

2015 des Chézeaux / Berthaut-Gerbet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Lots of colour. A nose that goes very deep, silky and accented with spice. Round and like the nose, very silky. Dark fruited yet still with plenty of freshness, much more composed than the 2014 drunk a week-or-so ago. Modest width in the mid and finishing flavour, modest intensity too, but still with good length. All-in-all, a wine that’s very tasty and also very easy to drink – certainly more accessible directly from opening versus the Griotte. Lovely!
Rebuy – Yes

Leave a Reply to billnCancel reply

There is one response to “weekend wines – week 23 2018”

  1. Kent Milani28th August 2019 at 1:13 pmPermalinkReply

    I notice the vigneron’s domaine is “Laurent Ponsot” not “Domaine Ponsot”. Is 2015 the only year like this?

    • billn28th August 2019 at 2:07 pmPermalinkReply

      Hi Kent
      Until, and including, the 2015 vintage, Laurent was making the Chézeaux wines at Domaine Ponsot via the metayage agreement – so this is normally classed as ‘domaine’
      From the 2016 vintage, Laurent set up on his own – it’s now what he calls a haute couture négociant – but he took the metayage contracts with him.
      You can see more in the May 2018 report – both producers:
      https://www.burgundy-report.com/burgundy-report-extra/05-2018/

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