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How to both end 2017 and start 2018? I think I’ll ‘uncork’ some 2002s…

2002 Domaine des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos des Varoilles
Deep, some impression of dark oak, herb and eventually a silky dark fruit. Ooh, this has a lovely impact in the mouth – super volume combined with freshness – almost a vibration of acidity – but never sharp. The mid-palate has quite high-toned, almost floral, fruit. An energetic, bold and tasty wine. Not silken, but that’s its character. Lovely wine that is probably entering an early period of semi-maturity. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2002 Hudelot-Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
This starts with a weight of sous-bois aroma – just a little sweeter and more complex than the Varoilles. Very similar in the mouth to the Varoilles in terms of both volume and freshness, possibly less fine textured but with more mid and finishing complexity. Less finishing weight but a little extra complexity. The cloth is cut the same for these two wines, but the pattern is modestly different. Also yum, and just a little nicer today – but both are fine.
Rebuy – Yes

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune 1er du Chateau
The nose starts a little lactic, but already with just 2 minutes of air this is singing with pure red fruits, and almost a spruce/blood-red fruit. Nice round shape in the mouth, no hard edges and a slowly melting flavour of sucrosity and friendliness. Oh – this is easily the most delicious of these three wines, so far. Yum, yum, yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2002 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Petits Monts
Deep coloured. The nose is the same – deep – nicely spiced almost mulled dark but fresh fruit. Nicely textured – more silk than velvet – fresh and intense. Pretty wine of good depth of flavour. Less seriously structured than either the Suchots or Varoilles but more delicious than either of those two, but with a distinguished mid and finishing flavour. Very nice!
Rebuy – Yes

The Beaune remains the wine to drink with the most pleasure today – admittedly something of a surprise! – but there’s nothing here that can’t be revisited with pleasure – it seems that there’s nothing scary about approaching 2002s right now – at least at 1er Cru level. These four provided a great start to 2018…