Entries from 2013

it’s an ill wind…

By billn on June 14, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

Yesterday, late afternoon, and up and down the Côtes was a bit of a storm. No worries about hail, and the rain that fell wasn’t really damaging as the flowers haven’t yet opened – but!

There were heavy gusts of wind on the more exposed slopes, such that the long shoots that haven’t yet been tied down – say 1 metre in length – were often ripped straight from the vines and thrown to the floor. That will sicken those who had been hoping for better yields…

nicholas maillet 2011 mâcon-verzé

By billn on June 14, 2013 #degustation

nicholas-maillet-2011-macon-verze

The temperature hovered around 30°C in the afternoon, so I was looking for something refreshing – as a balm!

2011 Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé
Medium yellow. The nose is quite enticing, round and full, it even smells a little sweet – but in a welcoming way. In the mouth I’d have liked a hint more zing (I always want more ‘zing’ 😉 ) yet this offered a mouthfull of round, slightly sweet Macon fruit and with just enough acidity (even as it warmed in the glass) to keep me hooked. Doubtless the 2010 would have been more my kind of thing, but my wife liked it very much, I, however, was looking for something with a bit more cut and thrust. But given the price, I really shouldn’t complain! A wine of excellent value and flavour.
Rebuy – Yes

mischief & mayhem 2006 puligny…

By billn on June 11, 2013 #degustation

MnM-2006-puligny

2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet
The last time I opened one of these, about 1 year ago, it resulted in a cautionary note as there was an element of oxidation to that wine – so how’s this? Medium golden colour. The nose is deep and mineral – no oxidation here – eventually offering a pure yellow lemon note. Concentrated, this wine has real weight in the mouth and shows very good acidity for the vintage, providing good energy. There is a leaching minerality in the finish which I like very much – though the overall stance of the wine starts a hint foursquare, reminiscent of a 2005, it becomes silky and slowly releases new flavour notes. Frankly, for a village wine, this is excellent quality. Back on form – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2010 pouilly-fuissé les birbettes de château rontets

By billn on June 10, 2013 #degustation

chateau-rontets-2010-pouilly-fuisse-birbettes

2010 Château des Rontets, Pouilly-Fuissé Les Birbettes
Medium lemon yellow colour. The nose is a little soft, the elements of oak have shamfered away anything sharp, leaving an undertow of faint ripe lemon tart framed with modest vanilla. In the mouth this is rather nice, in fact, very nice; there’s good acidity and the stony flavour just rounds out with a little sweetness. There’s nothing wishy-washy about this wine – plenty of flavour on offer, but it’s finely balanced flavour – I think this has plenty of class – I’d drink it ahead of many bourgogne blancs, come to think of it, ahead of some villages wines too!
Rebuy – Yes

arlaud’s 2011 bourgogne roncevie

By billn on June 09, 2013 #degustation

arlaud-2011-bourgogne-roncevie

2011 Arlaud, Bourgogne Roncevie
Medium, medium-plus colour. For the first 20 minutes after opening, every 2nd or 3rd sniff showed P2 but with food, it basically disappeared – there was never a suggestion on the palate, and it certainly wasn’t aromatically jarring, indeed the nose was bright, beautifully clear and red-fruited with an occasional floral reference. Initially, the flavours just seemed to lack a little cut and definition, but the balance and depth were definitely in the ‘executive bourgogne’ class. Nice acidity in the finish eventually brings a little focus – there’s too little tannin to be relevant to our discussion. A tasty wine, and one that slips down all too easily. In fact, very tasty indeed!
Rebuy – Yes

rapet 2010 ile des vergelesses

By billn on June 09, 2013 #degustation

rapet-ile-des-vergelesses-2010

2010 Rapet, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Ile des Vergelesses
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s plenty of CO2 so this benefits from a vigorous shake (or two). There’s a very pretty depth of dark-red fruit and eventually some violets in the mix too. In the mouth this is round and has a furry texture from the tannins before a lovely, mouth-watering acidity and pretty red fruit flavours take over. There is plenty of structure here but the fruit has nothing forced about it, indeed it’s altogether lighter, less musky and more ethereal than other producers’ ‘Iles’ (but I haven’t tasted their 10s so…). Here is a beautiful extra dimension of fresh flavour – it’s currently a complex and very beautiful wine but with 5 o’clock shadow from the tannins.
Rebuy – Yes

alex gambal’s 2010 dents du chien – swoon!

By billn on June 06, 2013 #degustation

alex-gambal-2010-st-aubin-dents-du-chien

27°C today – whoope! Looks like I’m fixed on the whites 😉
I hope it doesn’t get a bit too boring for you, but having lugged all these bottles home, I’m about to embark on testing them – fear not, I only bought 2 more from Alex!!!

2010 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents du Chien
I drank the last glass of the 2006 Bourgogne in preparation for this, in comparison, this has a rocket running through the middle of it! There’s a bit of toasty bread to start with, but behind the aromas are of fine sugared lemons with a the faintest hint cold custard. In the mouth this is defined by a glorious acidity that brings the intensity to a crescendo of concentration in the mid-palate – it’s such a whoosh – you’re hardly likely to notice how smooth and silky the texture is. The finish is hint mineral and understatedly long. Overall I found this a thrill in the glass but I wonder if it could get a bit screechy as it ages? Who knows (I eventually will!), but it’s just fabulous now!
Rebuy – Yes

I always buy some for a friend too – I wonder if should tell them that their allocation has been cut(?)!!

alex gambal’s 2006 bourgogne blanc

By billn on June 05, 2013 #degustation

I think this may be my last bottle of this, and I couldn’t buy any replacement when I visited Alex last week, as his 2010 and even 2011 are now sold out. That’ll teach me (not) to visit in May instead of January!

2006 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc
Just like the Chenu 2006 Savigny from yesterday, this is bright and as fresh as a daisy. Medium lemon yellow colour and with a musky deep chardonnay nose that has just a hint of green-skinned fruit about it – very inviting. There’s a little richness to this rounded package, but direct from the fridge it has vivacity and a more refreshing flavour than any bourgogne has right to offer. There is a high-toned citrus fruit in the mid-palate that’s rather lovely. 12 bottles, 12 successes – of-course I would rebuy it, but where would I find some?
Rebuy – Yes

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