A textbook example of the style of the Fixin Berthauts – who are the metayeurs here – super!

2010 des Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers
The nose is finely detailed, just a hint of flowers too over darker fruit. In the mouth this is a perfectly balanced middle-weight; flowing acidity and delicate fruit whose complexity grows in the mid-palate. Lingering and elegant in the finish. The last drops in glass offer a beautiful high-toned red-currant. This bottle simply wasn’t big enough!
Rebuy – Yes

After yesterday’s Les Vergers I decided I was on a run…

2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Tête du Clos (Blanc)
The nose is more pungent, Chassagne-style herbs, it seems brooding and quite powerful – normally a description of a red! In the mouth this is quite a ride; power and almost an element of tannin – it really reminds me of a hairy-chested red Chassagne – yet the flavours are of a white wine, and the acid balance is lovely. Maybe a hint of CO₂ was contributing to that tannin-like texture – but anyway, a wine to wait for, while you drink the Les Vergers!
Rebuy – Maybe

2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers (Blanc)
Like a sword, a well-balanced sword, sharp, thrusting and wielded with power. Okay enough of that, but this wine was really winner, with its minerality ande a certain tension. Simply lovely!
Rebuy – Yes

What a beautiful night on Saturday in Luzerne!

Great company and food, excellent wines – all blind – sat outside in the shadow of Pilatus.

To start, two whites: The first was ripe and had both depth and concentration – a little fat to the texture too. The second was simply beautiful; a deeper shade but still lemon yellow, beautifully floral and with a grace, balance and depth that could only be grand cru – I would guess a good 2006 grand cru. A lesson – expect the unexpected! The identity of the first wine was Dauvisat’s 2002 Cablis 1er Vaillons, we were all shocked by the second wine, because it was a 2003, yet such a wonderful 2003 from Chassagne’s Blanchot Dessus, admittedly sitting in the shadow of the grand crus – what a wine from Jean-Noel Gagnard!

The reds were to come thick and fast. First a 95 Chapelle from Damoy which wowed with its depth, still some structure, yet with none of the steminess of the 96. Next a 98 Latricières from Remy which was more mineral, still showing a lick of tannin and had a nose that became ever-more ethereal. Next up was a wine that showed a lot of leafiness and undergrowth on the nose and had an extra sweetness to the palate – it looked a little brown on pouring but much redder in the glass. My guess was a 92, but it was the 1990 Echézeaux from Cacheaux. Clearly the next wine had a much younger colour, but a beautiful nose that melded fruit and flower, beautiful texture and concentration, just a beautiful wine. The nose reminded me of great Volnay Caillerets or Beaune Vignes-Franches – I opted for a 2009 of the latter, but was anyway in the wrong Côte; it was Bénigne Joliet’s 2009 Fixin Clos de la Perrière – I can only say well-done Bénigne! Next was a wine that had an aromatic familiarity, but it took a little while to crystallise in my (tiring!) mind – but it was a low level of pyrazine, say P2 – but what a generally lovely wine that also showed nice fruit on the nose, and had super poise and complexity in the mouth. Given the colour it was clear that this must be a 2011, not a 2004 – it turned-out that this was a wine that trumped many better-known producers in a recent blind tasting of Echézeaux, the 2011 from Capitain-Gagnerot. Once again, chapeau! Our last red was complete and virile, a wine of energy and distinction too – given the ever-present structure, I guessed a 1999, but I had little more input at this stage of the evening! The wine was a great testament to Philippe Engel, it was the Engel 1993 Vosne Brûlées.

With the cheese we returned to a white wine; it seemed a little subdued – or was that me? 🙂 – but my neighbour was convinced it was a 2006 and I could find no reason to argue! He was right it was Vincent Dancer’s Chassagne 1er Tête du Clos, a mellow wine that perfectly suited the hour…

Back on message! Unlike my lust for Grand Cru Chablis, which I just love as a baby or 10 years old, it seems that these 1ers just got better with youth – of-course another 4 bottles, probably provide a different result!

2009 J Moreau, Chablis 1er Vaillons
Medium golden colour. The aromas are clean and pretty with high citrus tones and a more concentrated but understated core – pretty enough. In the mouth this is very good – better than average acidity for the vintage and the flavour seems to wash over my tongue in waves, and culminates in a nice intense mid-palate before slowly fading over rocks it seems – like a wave travelling away from you. Just a very nice wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2010 Long-Depaquit, Chablis 1er Vaillons
Pale lemon yellow. The nose starts unimpressively with a forward slug of sweet oak, but I think I’m being fooled and it’s mainly something reductive that doesn’t hang around for long – afterwards it’s pure seashore – the only wine with that impression. The seashore also fades – perhaps that’s reduction too – leaving a pretty floral note and good though understated fruit, I think it’s lovely now. In the mouth this is unctuous yet mineral; the acidity whilst understated never gives the impression of being insufficient. Just a very lovely wine for now – but decant for best effect!
Rebuy – Yes

It’s true, I took a short red break from my 4 Vaillons – the next two are (of-course) still on their way!

To develop a thirst for the Chablis I set myself a task on Saturday – to run from Lauterbrunnen up to Mürren, have lunch then do 4-5 hours of walking. The run didn’t go quite to plan; a couple of times I needed a 2 minute walk ‘recovery’, and by the time I got to Winteregg I was ‘done-in’ so took lunch there and changed into my boots. Actually I felt ashamed whilst walking from Winteregg to Mürren as it’s virtually flat – I could have run another 15 minutes – no problem, oh-well, maybe next time…

First, an ice-cream stop in Mürren – which is as gorgeously pretty in the summer as it is in the winter – before walking up the Palace Run to the Almendhübel and then onto Suppenalp for an ‘ice-coffee’. Back down into Mürren then the walk to Gimmelwald, Stechelberg and Lauterbrunnen – about 4 hours I suppose. I admit to napping on the train home! I’ll also admit to quite some muscle pain on Sunday too!

2010 Antonin Guyon, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras
Spicy oak and a little vanilla which really needs over an hour to become background elements. In the mouth this is sweet, fresh and has a lovely cut and clarity – it drinks very easily. The nose is a bit commercial which is a shame as Chambolle shouldn’t need all that make-up – but make-up or not, a very pretty wine.
Rebuy – Yes

A sunny day in Mürren: