So, really a triumph in one way – I don’t find a bit the 2004 character – but it’s far from a great Fourrier CSJ. That said, at this age you have every reason to expect a wine to be rather tight, and this isn’t. Just the acidity and tannin in the finish are slight niggles, and there is a slightly monolithic mid-palate impression that makes me think to 1994 – though I hope not. Still, nothing green, it smells great and it’s a wine you can drink today!
2004 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The wine is quite darkly (medium-plus) coloured – though far from young in shade, most 02s still look younger. The nose starts in that awkward slightly toasty oak way that Fourriers (to my bemusement) often do – they don’t see that much new wood, particularly the toasted type – I think it is reduction that needs to blow off. Less than 5 minutes in the glass and the oaky character is gone, now we have a deep, quite dark impression and a hint of cream gone lactic – it’s a hint so it’s still nice – a slight suggestion of dry forest leaves before a fruit note builds from the core, the fruit becomes ever-more prettier. In the mouth this has a silken texture and a concentration that builds as you head into the mid-palate. Initially I find the acidity not quite seamless – I’ll wait a little, hoping for either my palate or the wine to come together. The almost absent tannin only starts to reveal itself as a late bitter component in the mineral finish. The balance improves with food but I find the mid-palate flavours a little lumpen – smells great though.
Rebuy – Maybe