4 wines of 13 from last week (part one)


two nuits st georges

Drunk in the comfy surroundings and simple but delicious food of ‘Hilliards‘ in London:
2001 Coche-Dury, Auxey-Duressestry to find this wine...
Medium-pale colour with a hint of amber at the rim. The nose is soft, with a suggestion of undergrowth and pretty violets. The palate is mineral yet soft, not so deep but a fine width and a savoury finish. An altogether lovely aperitif if you can get a good price.
Rebuy – Yes
2004 Chevillon-Chezeaux, Nuits 1er Les Bousselots (Blanc)try to find this wine...
Medium yellow. The nose starts with a forward brioche note before fading into a good if simple ripe fruit effect. There is some fat, but this wine is defined by a lovely spine of acidity – it starts just a little prickly but quickly smooths. Unlike many heavy and ponderous whites from the Côte de Nuits, I find this fresh and engaging.
Rebuy – Yes
1991 Armand Rousseau, Gevrey 1er Clos St.Jacquestry to find this wine...
A lovely, bright medium ruby-red colour. Undergrowth and maturing red fruits are the main aromas to start, but slowly the undergrowth fades to reveal a lovely redcurrant note. Nice texture – very smooth. I find just a tough of harshness to the acidity that’s mirrored in the finish, but this slowly improves if never completely fades. There is a nicely understated length here and I would say this is pretty much ready to go. Very nice, but far from the quality of the Chambertin and Bèze at this address in 1991, in terms of a rebuy, I would expect prices to be too high for the reward – but you never know.
Rebuy – Maybe
1983 Clair-Daü, Gevrey 1er Estournelles St.Jacquestry to find this wine...
Deep, dark and powerful aromas with a hint of volatility that eventually settle into a mature red-fruit vein. There is a lovely core of fresh flavour here, it’s robust and will never be a charmer but there is personality galore and it’s surprisingly clean and tasty.
Rebuy – Yes
1993 Jean Chauvenet, Nuits 1er Les Vaucrainstry to find this wine...
A medium-plus, young looking colour. Earthy, deep aromas with a mix of black and red fruit coupled to something a little more mature and savoury. In the mouth there is a mix of richness and freshness coupled to astringent tannins that probably ripe enough and certainly on the wane. Still a young showing and very impressive too.
Rebuy – Yes

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