Entries from 2003

Lunch

By billn on October 04, 2003 #travel

Yesterday I was very lucky to share a lunch with the team of Le Serbet at their office in Beaune – a super lunch it was too, cooked by Russell’s own fair hands with a spectacular ‘goute de bouchon tappanade’. It’s a fab cosmopolitan atmosphere with the conversation a mélange of English and French about this grower and that bottle; wines from Champagne, Alsace, Provence and the Rhône; Dominique Lafon drops in to chew the cud, eat his sandwich and share in a coffee – what a cool place!

Many thanks to Russell and Becky, I wasn’t planning another trip before January, but . . . .

A New Site.

By billn on October 01, 2003 #other sites

Another new producer’s website, this time from Domaine des Chézeaux. Some super-keen prices too for the Grand Cru’s of Griotte-Chambertin, Chambertin & Clos Saint Denis, all reviewed in the forthcoming Burgundy Report

Closing the door on 2003

By billn on September 25, 2003 #vintage 2003

romanee saint vivantSo it’s 7:15pm on the 24th September, looking west past the cross on the corner of Romanée Saint-Vivant the sun is already gone. You need something against the chill – it’s about 12°C with a sneaky breeze.

Despite all the vineyards around being harvested many days ago, there are so many grapes in the DRC vineyards that are still hanging – but they are for the birds!

The grapes appear more homogenous than 12 days ago when still there were many green bunches. I’m sure there could be a decent cuvée made from this lot, but these days your not allowed to pick your own – though the grapes from Romanée-Conti did tast rather nice!

Speaking with Etienne de Montille yesterday (who spoke with Aubert de Villaine on Saturday) DRC left something like 20% of the fruit on the vine after taking only that which was perfectly ripe. Doing a quick calculation based on the size of La Tâche, a rough €500 estimate per bottle and an even rougher 35hl/ha average yield, that’s close to 1 million Euro left on the vines – now that’s what you call commitment to quality! Also gives a hint to why it costs what it does.

Dr Goode on Terroir

By billn on September 22, 2003 #other sites

A little more on terroir? How about a more scientific look at the concept of wines tasting like the soils they are grown on – Jamie Goode is our guide

Bond, James Bond…

By billn on September 19, 2003 #other sites

Ever wondered what James Bond drinks? Here’s a treasure-trove of information – where he drinks that half-bottle of ’53 Mouton Rothschild etc.

Towerblock Cellars

By billn on September 19, 2003 #other sites

Ever though of updating your cellar? Just think, if you made it over 12 metres tall from glass and stainless steel, you’d have to throw away all those cartons with only one bottle in, and probably the lids from wooden cases that you thought you might find a use for!

Sacrifice in Romanée-Conti

By billn on September 13, 2003 #vintage 2003

romanee-contiPlenty of domaines harvested in August but some left it until September.

By the 12th 99% of the producers have finished, but for the Grand Cru’s of Vosne-Romanée, most still have lots of fruit on the vine, plenty also on the floor – as above in Romanée-Conti.

The yields were pitiful with 2-3 small bunches per vine – and yet still whole bunches were sacrificed in the ‘nameplate’ vineyards.

The Heat of 2003

By billn on September 10, 2003 #vintage 2003

La TacheLooking across La Tâche 25.07.2003

Already two months of close to 40°C and another month of the same still to endure – praying for a little rain?

Still it’s a little cooler as we start September, but most vineyards are already cleared.

It seems that some vineyards have problems; the increasing sugars and decreasing acidity are usually a sign to begin harvesting – but the phenolics were still unripe. Many still harvested as they believed that no acidity would be left.

It will be – for sure – a fascinating vintage and certainly one to remember, though, despite the skills to be found in many domaines (where doubtless some superb wines will appear) I expect this to be a very heterogenous millesime . . . . .

Terry Thiese

By billn on September 09, 2003 #other sites

I cannot lie, Terry Thiese was a new name to me when I came across his work this week. An ardent terroiriste he writes with wit verve and for me the occasional bolt of blinding clarity. Do yourself a favour and check out some of his work.

Burgundy Report

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