Medium-plus core of garnet red. The nose starts wide, slightly unfocused with deep and brooding fruit and a cedar note that’s reminiscent of many a 2004, slowly a little meat and glimpses of red fruit as the cedar withdraws. Eventually it’s slightly fresher, no cedar, and perhaps a little spiced tea. The initial texture is quite silky though in the mid-palate there is quite some grainy tannin that despite showing a little bitterness seems to help cement the very long finish. The flavours are mineral rather than fruit driven; quite some creamyness underpinning more cedar on the palate, it’s mouthwatering without being overly fresh. The overall effect is a little blurred – like a soft-focus picture. Summarising, there’s plenty of grand cru dimension, some secondary flavours and a structure that would benefit from another 3-5 years storage – but there’s no wow factor here.
Richebourg
1994 Méo-Camuzet Richebourg
Medium colour. The nose is understated but very wide, interesting and clean. The palate is fresh, actually a little racy and mineral with delicate red fruit and a lovely, impressive – yet suble finish. It never comes close to the concentration of the 1990 Chaumes, but it is complex, delicate and lovely with a finish that lingers and lingers. It’s hardly a performance you would expect from Richebourg, but it’s a lovely wine ready for plucking!
1999 Gros Frère & Soeur Richebourg
Medium-plus ruby-red colour, still with hints of cherry. Shiny red fruit on the nose with a black undertow and a little earth, eventually a little orange too. Sweet and concentrated with real mid-palate intensity. Soft entry, well covered tannin with a slowly fading good length that maybe even has a hint of licorice. Rather like de Vogüé’s 01 Musigny this displays apparently less ripe tannin when compared to others in its flight.
2004 Romanée-Conti Richebourg
Yield 27.25 hl/ha – or 953 cases. Slightly deeper colour. Violets and smoke on the sweet nose – the stems are more forward than with the previous wines. Lovely red fruit notes waft from the almost drained glass. Again a different approach – the wine starts narrow but widens and widens on the palate. There tannins are evident but well covered by fruit. The length is very sneaky indeed. There is similar concentration but better balance compared to the Saint-Vivant. Despite not fileding the usual Richebourg ‘punch’, this is a super package.
2003 Romanée-Conti Richebourg
The only wine today that reluctantly welcomes your nose – quite closed, only slowly, slowly evolving a deep, coffee edged, savoury plum aspect. Given time this perspective becomes broader and more spice inflected but never quite matching the openness of the other wines. Again this is a wine where the palate is dominated by its weight of extract, bettering the RSV and equalling the GE for length. The tannins are just a little less astringent than those from the RSV. I find the wine incredibly impressive, yet somehow not as compulsive as the GE.
1972 Clos Frantin Richebourg
2002 Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is quite tight, meaty with aspects of black fruit but gives little away. You need to wait quite some time for more exuberance, precise red berry notes slowly emerge. Plenty of grainy tannins and super length are the first impression, but what’s missing is a little excitement. There’s still some oak apparent on the finish. Density certainly, good mouth-feel and no easily spotted faults, but tonight it’s missing the spark.
2002 Romanée-Conti Richebourg
A very low yield this year, not much more produced than Romanée-Conti. It’s a rather narrow nose compared to the others, but it’s like cliff-diving, it’s just so deep. Swirling fills some of the gaps, as does extended time in the glass – it never loses that depth though. Whilst I loved the RSV I have to say that this wine is frankly a tour-de-force in the mouth, nothing hard, great balance but every aspect is on a fantastic level – from first impression right through the mid-palate to the finish. In both 2000 and 2001 I preferred the RSV and despite my ‘bias’ in this respect I have to give the rosette to this wine in 2002 – bravo – fabulous, measured concentration…
2001 Romanée-Conti Richebourg
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is of faintly alcoholic red cherry that overlays a spicy base. In the mouth, concentrated essence of dried fruits (shouldn’t write that – the next might be even more concentrated). The tannins are close to be completely covered by the fruit, the finish evidently more harmonious than the last tasting. Whilst this doesn’t quite have that ‘x-factor’ displayed by the Romanée-Saint-Vivant it now shows the makings of a super wine.