Corton

2003 Cornu Corton

By on March 31, 2007 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. A soft and dusty fruit nose, red fruit, some cream and relatively modest toasty/spicy oak – eventually coffee/mocha overtones. On the palate the ripe fruit is a little oak-marked, and that oak is slightly bitter and for a while dominates the quite long finish. Slowly some creamy fruit comes through, eventually aeration provides a nice balance.

1966 Leroy (Maison) Corton

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium colour, only a little amber at the rim – belies its 40 years – there’s a healthy dose of ’solids’ in the bottom of my glass so not totally bright. The nose starts wide and quickly gets deeper and deeper, very interesting and not a little ‘glossy’ in aspect. The nose goes much deeper than the Vosne if considerably less spicy and smokey. The first impression is sweetness, just a little bite to the tannin and freshness – squeaky clean in fact. This wine is long, seriously long. I must say it’s hard to pick specifics (it’s always the same with old reds), this is an incredibly impressive wine that went perfectly with the ravioli dish. A timeless wine that given age, quality and provenance, shows good value, though surprisingly I didn’t get the ‘wow’ factor.

2001 Pillet Virginie Corton

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium ruby-red. The nose is high-toned, sweet, powdery red fruit is the main impression. Like many 2001’s this is quite elegant, it has nice acidity and only faint tannin. What’s missing is definitely some ‘Corton oomph’. A nice wine but not really of grand cru standard.

2000 Pillet Virginie Corton

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Not entirely sure of the provenance of this wine, the label has in small letters – ‘par Dubreuil-Fontaine à Pernand’. Medium ruby red, right to the rim. Powdery red fruit on the nose, quite understated, gradually builds in intensity with redcurrant coming through. The palate is dense, sweet and fat, avoids the thin astringent aspect of many from the Côte de Beaune in 2000, but is obviously very ripe in the 2000 vernacular. Still quite primary but anyway pretty good

2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton

By on October 31, 2004 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. Pleasing high-toned red cherry fruit shows on the nose. There’s a solid core of fruit on the palate. A silky, wide, expansive impression in the the mouth with velvetty tannin. Long and with definite personality this is a 2000.

1993 Bonneau du Martray Corton

By on October 31, 2004 #asides

From magnum. Deep colour. High tones over a base of raisins and dried red fruit on the nose. A really nice core of concentrated fruit on the palate pushed long into the finish by first-class ’93 acidity. The grainy tannins don’t have the sophistication of the recent wines, but this is certainly a very enjoyable finale and still a very young wine in this format.

2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton

By on October 31, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus colour. The nose is a blend of red and black fruits. Not the obvious fat and flashy friendliness of most 2002’s, much more a classic, concentrated brooding wine. The tannin shows a good grip and there’s a lovely fruity length. A very good wine.

2001 Bonneau du Martray Corton

By on October 31, 2004 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a little tighter and less communicative, some powdery red fruit. Shows a very young and backward palate. Excellent quality to the fruit and good length too. This wine begs several years in cellar but should be worth the wait.

1997 Parent Corton

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

One of the rare white Corton’s i.e. one made on soil normally producing red wines. Still it’s the land that is classed as Grand Cru so this also carries that tag despite not being from the ‘Charlemagne’ area. The first bottle was quite interesting in a thin, mineral sort of way but betrayed a little taint and was absolutely not of Grand Cru quality. So bottle number two is golden in colour. The nose is deep and totally different to bottle number one, perhaps just the merest trace of oxidation – perhaps not it’s very faint – maybe it’s just the mix of nuts and faint cheese (better than it sounds) that seems to be there. The palate is very fat, perhaps needs just a lift more of acidity, but there’s interesting high toned fruit and is long too – though just a little bitterness and yes now I think there is some oxidation. Given the slight nutty oxidative note I’d say this wine is not for keeping. A very interesting wine, and in terms of density it’s worthy of Grand Cru status – but it’s a world away from the following wine.

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