Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. A soft and dusty fruit nose, red fruit, some cream and relatively modest toasty/spicy oak – eventually coffee/mocha overtones. On the palate the ripe fruit is a little oak-marked, and that oak is slightly bitter and for a while dominates the quite long finish. Slowly some creamy fruit comes through, eventually aeration provides a nice balance.
Corton
1966 Leroy (Maison) Corton
Medium colour, only a little amber at the rim – belies its 40 years – there’s a healthy dose of ’solids’ in the bottom of my glass so not totally bright. The nose starts wide and quickly gets deeper and deeper, very interesting and not a little ‘glossy’ in aspect. The nose goes much deeper than the Vosne if considerably less spicy and smokey. The first impression is sweetness, just a little bite to the tannin and freshness – squeaky clean in fact. This wine is long, seriously long. I must say it’s hard to pick specifics (it’s always the same with old reds), this is an incredibly impressive wine that went perfectly with the ravioli dish. A timeless wine that given age, quality and provenance, shows good value, though surprisingly I didn’t get the ‘wow’ factor.
2001 Pillet Virginie Corton
2000 Pillet Virginie Corton
Not entirely sure of the provenance of this wine, the label has in small letters – ‘par Dubreuil-Fontaine à Pernand’. Medium ruby red, right to the rim. Powdery red fruit on the nose, quite understated, gradually builds in intensity with redcurrant coming through. The palate is dense, sweet and fat, avoids the thin astringent aspect of many from the Côte de Beaune in 2000, but is obviously very ripe in the 2000 vernacular. Still quite primary but anyway pretty good
2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton
1993 Bonneau du Martray Corton
From magnum. Deep colour. High tones over a base of raisins and dried red fruit on the nose. A really nice core of concentrated fruit on the palate pushed long into the finish by first-class ’93 acidity. The grainy tannins don’t have the sophistication of the recent wines, but this is certainly a very enjoyable finale and still a very young wine in this format.
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton
2001 Bonneau du Martray Corton
1997 Parent Corton
One of the rare white Corton’s i.e. one made on soil normally producing red wines. Still it’s the land that is classed as Grand Cru so this also carries that tag despite not being from the ‘Charlemagne’ area. The first bottle was quite interesting in a thin, mineral sort of way but betrayed a little taint and was absolutely not of Grand Cru quality. So bottle number two is golden in colour. The nose is deep and totally different to bottle number one, perhaps just the merest trace of oxidation – perhaps not it’s very faint – maybe it’s just the mix of nuts and faint cheese (better than it sounds) that seems to be there. The palate is very fat, perhaps needs just a lift more of acidity, but there’s interesting high toned fruit and is long too – though just a little bitterness and yes now I think there is some oxidation. Given the slight nutty oxidative note I’d say this wine is not for keeping. A very interesting wine, and in terms of density it’s worthy of Grand Cru status – but it’s a world away from the following wine.