Clos de la Roche

1997 Castagnier Guy Clos de la Roche

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium ruby-red colour with more than a passing shade of amber at the rim. The fresh nose has some lovely componets; high tones, coffee, sweet undergrowth, unfortunately they don’t really meld together in a particularly interesting way. The palate has more interest, starting with a narrow entry it opens nicely on the mid-palate and shows good intensity. The acidity sticks out a little but there is sweetness and a very impressive length. Overall there’s no real class here – it’s very drinkable despite the rough edges, but hardly a grand cru experience – at least it wasn’t corked!

1997 Dujac Clos de la Roche

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

The nose is very stemmy – more so than even the average Dujac – but some nice pure fruit behind. I like stems, but not so overpowering. Overall there is a sense of disappointment as this is a rather blurred and muted bottle.

2004 Potel Nicolas Clos de la Roche

By on July 31, 2007 #asides

Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The instant aromatic impact comes from red fruit notes before a stronger, mineral/cedar element takes over. The less wine you have in your glass, the more wonderful it smells, lovely red fruits. The palate is very well filled with concentrated fruit and quite some intensity in the mid-palate. The tannin is not badly textured though there’s a short-lived trace of bitterness – but it comes at the same time as the earthy, dark oak appears on the finish so that bitterness seems to be more wood-based. That length is certainly grand cru without being too showy, though there’s a subtle creamy undertow there somewhere. Overall it shows good ripeness, and nice balance – if the cedar element becomes more subtle this will be lovely, but right now it remains – for me – a questionmark.

1995 Dujac Clos de la Roche

By on November 30, 2006 #asides

(From Magnum) Medium, medium-plus ruby-red, and a little brighter than the 75cl bottle that I last opened. The nose takes time to get into it’s stride; starting with faint smoke and a slightly estery width, but there is an ever-sweetening and intensifying core of red fruit that eventually becomes more floral – though it’s a heavy rather than refined scent – impressive and moreish all the same. The slowly intensifying fruit on the nose is mirrored by the taste, always building in the mouth, just a transient petillance too. Good acidity and dry but not blocky tannin and long with a dark-fruit aspect to the finish. The stems don’t seem to engender the fresh purity of some wines, but the complexity is there for all to see. Very impressive.

1996 Castagnier Guy Clos de la Roche

By on August 31, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is a beauty; a meaty base with sweet delineated fruit of real depth, loses a little of the higher tones with time in the glass. The fruit is concentrated and dense, velvety and plush without being too fat, though dense enough to amply cover the super acidity. The finish is long even for a grand cru. Still rather linear, rather than growing the mouth it’s a slow diminuendo. Very lovely now and no rush to consume.

1999 Castagnier Guy Clos de la Roche

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium cherry-red colour – perhaps just a trace of purple. The nose is wide with high-toned fruity headroom and more than a hint of sweetened cherry. The palate is fresh and wide – not the highest level of concentration, but depth and lovely fresh fruit with super complexity on the finish. I think with a little lower yields this could have been outstanding – as opposed to interesting and satisfying – first from this case, and no ‘buyer’s regret!’.

2004 Potel Nicolas Clos de la Roche

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

Soft, complex and sweet red nose, lots of interest. The wine currently seems to be a bit of battle for supremacy between the fruit and the structure – and there’s plenty of both – just needs time to settle down a bit. Like most of the wines in this range the structure is beautifully tailored, so I expect this to come together well.

2003 Bouchard Aine Clos de la Roche

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

From 60 year-old vines raised in 40% new oak. The nose is a hint reductive, but there’s plenty of black fruit and raisin notes. A concentrated, astringent palate. Packed with extract, but I wouldn’t want to drink it now. It is easily spotted as a 2003, but has plenty of interest and could be almost good in time.

2004 Boisset Jean-Claude Clos de la Roche

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

From 50 year-old vines – only 2 barrels. Medium-plus colour. Wide and complex nose though not so deep, showing black shaded fruit and just a trace of black olive. Lots of tannin clings to the inside of your mouth, but the fruit is quite enough of a match. Quite lovely length, again a super wine, but today I just prefer the Charmes.

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