Golden colour – maybe a little too golden for the vintage. The nose confirms it, oxidised – not too badly to drink, or too strident – a level that would be forgivable if it was ten years older. The palate has some width and creamy, oaky flavours of reasonable length. Despite almost good acidity there is no energy here. Our winemaker lunch companion summed it up in one word – tired.
Chassagne-Montrachet
2002 Colin Marc Chassagne-Montrachet
Medium, medium-minus colour. The nose is sweetly interesting, backed by a faint cedar note – gives the impression of a denser wine than reality, eventually a high toned alcoholic note develops. The palate has lovely fruit and slightly astringent tannin, but the acidity is rather tart. These negative aspects rather obscure a nice level of fat. I found this improving with aeration before slipping back as before.
2002 Niellon Michel Chassagne-Montrachet
Pale-medium yellow, some crystallised solids in the bottom of the bottle. A reticent nose with very faint smoky caramel – needs swirling to release citrus-infected fruit. The palate has width, depth and a burst of interest that follows the acidity. Seems a little more austere than about one year ago, but it’s infused with plenty of material
2001 Niellon Michel Chassagne-Montrachet
Medium yellow. The nose majors on depth – slightly oak influenced – and little else despite time in the glass. The wine is concentrated, with a citrussy intensity on the mid-palate, but always remains absolutely linear. The acidity has an edge of harshness but contributes well to the good length. Like the 2002, this was drinking much better last year – that lift of sweetness is now gone – I would let these rest in the cellar for a couple of years now.
2001 Niellon Michel Chassagne-Montrachet
Medium golden colour. In contrast to the 2002 this is much more reticent on the nose but offers a much more complex mix. The density is almost to the same level as the 2002, though this time it’s delivered in a much more understated way, perhaps a more silky delivery too. Again nicely balanced and very tasty.
2002 Niellon Michel Chassagne-Montrachet
2003 Bichot Albert Chassagne-Montrachet
2002 Carillon Louis Chassagne-Montrachet
Medium, medium-plus colour – still young cherry-red. The nose is of creamy red cherry, perhaps a little soft and lactic. In the mouth it’s a fresh expression of black shaded fruit with a lovely creamy tinge to the medium-plus finish. Quite some personality here, fresh acidity and slightly grainy tannins – there’s a depth to the fruit that is not matched by intensity but I liked this anyway. Very nice with a pork joint.
2001 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet
A blend from three different vineyards. Just a little darker in colour. A deeper nose, more sumptuous and floral, at first I thought ripe pear fruit, but before emptying the glass I decidied it was more pineapple. More concentration and depth on the mid-palate than the Clos du Château. There’s a super little burst/flourish of fruit on the finish. This is a lovely villages.