Medium-pale yellow. The nose has many plusses – lovely high tones and a tight, linear depth – they just seemed a little unconnected at the start, eventually widens and comes together more, much more forward. The palate is quite unformed, intense, almost good acidity and certainly very long, though just tending to bitterness at the end. Quite impressive, and definitely not a 2003 for early drinking.

This wine saw 15% barrel fermentation. The widest nose here, but doesn’t match the impressive depth of the ‘Blanchots’ – quite ripe in complexion. Despite the extra ripeness to the fruit on the nose, it is certainly the most mineral impression of any of these wines. Despite this, there is a rich texture to wine, etching the flavour into the palate – very deep stony fruit. The Blanchots is a the more steely, this has the most impact. A worthy addition to any cellar.

Medium-plus yellow. The nose is waxy and smooth. The concentrated palate gives quite a dense showing – there’s lot’s of material here – good acidity and nice length. For me this wine is in that area where I wouldn’t drink – old enough to have lost it’s youthful zest and still too young for serious complexity.

Medium-plus yellow. The nose is waxy and smooth. The concentrated palate gives quite a dense showing – there’s lot’s of material here – good acidity and nice length. For me this wine is in that area where I wouldn’t drink – old enough to have lost it’s youthful zest and still too young for serious complexity.