Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose has a little oak-toast and shows a much more savoury and spicy edge than the other wines, the fruit has a blacker edge too. The spice is also there on the palate, in-fact it currently defines the wine more than the fruit. A completely different expression to the others, it shows impressive though primary density and balanced structure – more so than the 99 Amoureuses – different, but very interesting.
Bonnes-Mares
1988 Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares
Medium-plus core of ruby-red that shows only a little fading. The nose is very-much a 1993-style expression of fruit with a more mineral, graphitic edge and becomes a little meaty with aeration. Lovely texture, still very fruit-driven and also quite earthy. The balance and remaining structure suggest that many years of enjoyment lie ahead for this wine.
2000 Comte Robert Bonnes-Mares
1998 Thomas-Moillard Bonnes-Mares
Quite deep colour. Nose is quite wide but not so deep it really needs time to extend itself. Likewise this was a little disappointing on the palate when first opened – more a village standard. It was really about 90 minutes before this wine was singing, and I really liked the tune, both nose and palate expanded in all directions. There’s plenty of tannin, but not particularly astringent and has the fruit to match. Long in the finish – I was disappointed at the start, but sorry to see this finished. If you go for it, take 2 hours in a decanter, it’s young but it’s also very, very promising.
1996 Castagnier Guy Bonnes-Mares
Just a trace of dried wine below the capsule. The colour is medium-plus ruby-red, fading to the rim, but little colour change. The nose starts with some oak, takes a little longer to disperse than with the Clos Saint Denis, eventually a sweet red fruit comes through. Fatter than the Denis with less obviously 96 acidity – but still fine. More tannin and with a slight grain. There seems to be more material here, but in just a little more primary form. It’s easy to drink but it’s about 4 years since I last tasted this one and at the time I thought it was the most forward – not today.
2001 Thomas Charles Bonnes-Mares
Only medium colour – cherry red. The nose is very subdued, but shows a few high tones. Given 40 minutes opens up just a little more to give a deeper profile, perhaps a trace of caramel too. The palate on the other hand, shows very fine, concentrated fruit with good fat. Nice acidity with forward, but well mannered, tannins. Should become a very good bottle.
2001 Vougeraie Bonnes-Mares
1985 Dujac Bonnes-Mares
From magnum. Sweet, cooked cherry nose still shows lots of oak, but the wood is well integrated. The palate is very ripe and sweet with good acidity and mouth-wrapping tannins. I’m surprised how primary this wine still is, no real complexity. I don’t know whether it will just stay at this level for another 15 years or whether it will improve. Still a fine wine, but I’m disappointed in the lack of development.