Strangely orange in colour. The nose is very strange – almost menthol, then corked…
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1989
1989 Pavelot Jean-Marc et Hugues Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Gravains
A treat! Medium ruby-red. The nose is a lovely blend of confiture over soil – and that’s while the wine is still cold. Gorgeous, soft texture, real concentration and an almost caramel aspect. The tannins are still evident but they’re well to the background. A sneaky length that just builds with time. Jean-Marc bought these vines in 1988, and Hugues says that the ’88 was quite tanninc when young and is still a little hard – this, however, is just perfect now and there’s no rush.
1989 Latour Louis Corton Château Corton Grancey
Looks relatively pale as you pour the wine, but gives a surprisingly deep amber/brown in the glass. The nose seems to be of a much more ancient vintage than 89, but it’s sweet and a little meaty, still a little stewing, pruney fruit. The palate has depth, good acidity and still a little rasp on the (mostly) resolved tannins. It’s a perfectly mature and perfectly pleasant wine – not one to get overly excited over though.
1989 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin
We are finally starting to see some maturity in these wines: Medium ruby with an amber rim. Not pronounced, but a beautifully understated nose to fall into, red fruits, caramel, coffee and a touch of licorice too. Despite finely concentrated fruit, acidity and still prominent, drying tannins, the palate seems a little ‘flat’ after the 1991 – a super finish though. In retrospect perhaps this is still a little too young. Still very fine, but it’s up against stiff competition here.
1989 Gros Michel Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas
1989 Morot Albert Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Vergelesses
1989 Tollot-Beaut Corton Bressandes
1989 Grivot Jean Nuits St.Georges Les Pruliers
Old style label. Quite deep ruby with brick edge. The nose still has some woody oak, but has sweetened. Slightly smokey/tobacco and ashes from the fire hints. Underneath that I’d say plum conserve. Really nice mouth-feel. Thick, silky and following an apparent mid-palate gap, suddenly very long. After 20 minutes the gap is plugged by quite high cherry fruit, but the acidity on the finish is starting to get a little harsh. Seems only a transient (or palate!) thing as it drinks well all evening. Not earth shattering, but very tasty. Definitely better today than the 1988 version.
1989 Thomas-Moillard Romanée Saint-Vivant
Mature looking but with sufficient deep colour to make the age hard to determine. The nose . . . . . chocolate cherry liqueurs(!) and really sweet, almost intoxicating. The palate, still has really good acidity and lots of furry tannin. Tons of depth to the fruit, with the finish continuing to develop for the first hour the bottle was open. Worth much more than the €58 paid – outstanding – and years of life ahead of it.