Medium-pale yellow. The nose is broad and deep, a faint backgound of cream and bread, but no overt oak. Lovely intense and complex palate of rippling acidity and citrussy fruit – lovely extension of width on the mid-palate before slowly dying into the finish. Super and from such a youngster – this is a definite re-buy!
2004
2004 Boillot Jean Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère
Medium lemon-yellow. A nose of baked bread and higher, more diffuse tones. The palate has lovely smooth acidity and a depth of soft but concentrated high-toned fruit. There’s just a quick flash of something that shouts ‘Puligny’ in the mid palate, followed by a long savoury, slightly spicy – perhaps ginger – finish. As usual this is an excellent wine and it’s certainly a ‘buy’, but to drink today I’d put Amoit’s ‘Vergers’ a little ahead based on its fresh citrussy purity and joie-de-vivre.
2004 Boillot Jean-Marc Montagny 1er Cru
Pale lemon-yellow. A woody nose at first – takes a little air to bring more balance – and a tight core of mainly pear fruit. The palate fleshes out with aeration – just a little weedy to start. The concentration is backend-loaded providing a very nice finish. Though the fresh acidity is only-just ripe enough, the texture is nicely smooth. For only 2/3 the price of Leflaive’s (for instance) Bourgogne, this is a good value wine – less sweet than the cheaper-still Jadot 02 Bourgogne, but more complex.
2004 Colin Philippe Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées
Drunk following the Chassagne of Amiot. Medium-yellow. The nose is a little richer and deeper, backed by some sweet oak. The palate also shows a richer edge and is very long. The acidity is just a little more forward and steely in presentation – perhaps helps push the finish. Very tasty, not the perfect balance of the Amiot but all the same, a very good buy.
2004 Lamy Hubert St.Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard
Saved! After the last two corked bottles Olivier came to our rescue. This is a young and slightly unformed wine, light coloured, fresh with a more than a passing nod of oak on the nose – but it slowly fades. The palate is quite linear, again showing some oak, but there are plenty of interesting flavours and a lovely balance. I’m not sure it’s all that concentrated, but it’s very tasty and was very-much enjoyed.
2004 Château de Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroye
Medium yellow. A wide nose, some higher tones but not quite the amplitude or depth of some of these Chassagnes. The palate is rich and just a little softer but with real concentration. A real burst of intensity on the mid-palate though it’s just a little ‘un-knit’ at the moment. I think this is due to the oak treatment – there’s just perceptible coconut on the finish. Needs a little more time to come together, but it’s concentrated, has good acidity and should be rather good.
2004 Ramonet Noel Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
Medium-pale yellow. Deep and creamy, vanilla-laden nose – I never did find any fruit. The palate is a real mix of fruit and mineral attributes, well-balanced acidity and really impressive complexity. This is a lovely wine and quite easy to drink today, though for the short-term I’d put Amiot’s wine ahead, longer-term I think there’s more to this wine.
2004 Giroud Camille Pommard Epenots
2004 Potel Nicolas Volnay Clos des Chênes
A deeper nose of darker fruit yet still topped with fresh high-tones – perhaps just a hint of reduction in the background. Here we find the structure of the Santenots and in the mid-palate almost (but not quite) the concentration of the Champans. However, there is a real extra dimension on the finish – the wine opens out beautifully.