2004

2004 Amiot Guy Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium-pale yellow. The nose is broad and deep, a faint backgound of cream and bread, but no overt oak. Lovely intense and complex palate of rippling acidity and citrussy fruit – lovely extension of width on the mid-palate before slowly dying into the finish. Super and from such a youngster – this is a definite re-buy!

2004 Boillot Jean Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium lemon-yellow. A nose of baked bread and higher, more diffuse tones. The palate has lovely smooth acidity and a depth of soft but concentrated high-toned fruit. There’s just a quick flash of something that shouts ‘Puligny’ in the mid palate, followed by a long savoury, slightly spicy – perhaps ginger – finish. As usual this is an excellent wine and it’s certainly a ‘buy’, but to drink today I’d put Amoit’s ‘Vergers’ a little ahead based on its fresh citrussy purity and joie-de-vivre.

2004 Boillot Jean-Marc Montagny 1er Cru

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Pale lemon-yellow. A woody nose at first – takes a little air to bring more balance – and a tight core of mainly pear fruit. The palate fleshes out with aeration – just a little weedy to start. The concentration is backend-loaded providing a very nice finish. Though the fresh acidity is only-just ripe enough, the texture is nicely smooth. For only 2/3 the price of Leflaive’s (for instance) Bourgogne, this is a good value wine – less sweet than the cheaper-still Jadot 02 Bourgogne, but more complex.

2004 Colin Philippe Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Drunk following the Chassagne of Amiot. Medium-yellow. The nose is a little richer and deeper, backed by some sweet oak. The palate also shows a richer edge and is very long. The acidity is just a little more forward and steely in presentation – perhaps helps push the finish. Very tasty, not the perfect balance of the Amiot but all the same, a very good buy.

2004 Lamy Hubert St.Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Saved! After the last two corked bottles Olivier came to our rescue. This is a young and slightly unformed wine, light coloured, fresh with a more than a passing nod of oak on the nose – but it slowly fades. The palate is quite linear, again showing some oak, but there are plenty of interesting flavours and a lovely balance. I’m not sure it’s all that concentrated, but it’s very tasty and was very-much enjoyed.

2004 Château de Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroye

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium yellow. A wide nose, some higher tones but not quite the amplitude or depth of some of these Chassagnes. The palate is rich and just a little softer but with real concentration. A real burst of intensity on the mid-palate though it’s just a little ‘un-knit’ at the moment. I think this is due to the oak treatment – there’s just perceptible coconut on the finish. Needs a little more time to come together, but it’s concentrated, has good acidity and should be rather good.

2004 Ramonet Noel Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium-pale yellow. Deep and creamy, vanilla-laden nose – I never did find any fruit. The palate is a real mix of fruit and mineral attributes, well-balanced acidity and really impressive complexity. This is a lovely wine and quite easy to drink today, though for the short-term I’d put Amiot’s wine ahead, longer-term I think there’s more to this wine.

2004 Giroud Camille Pommard Epenots

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

A more effusive nose, only slowly becomes more coherent with red fruit coming through. Lots of vigour and concentration though retains elegance. Great balancing acidity and nice texture to this wine. It’s very long, though without the creamy edge of the villages Gevrey. Very nice.

2004 Potel Nicolas Volnay Clos des Chênes

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

A deeper nose of darker fruit yet still topped with fresh high-tones – perhaps just a hint of reduction in the background. Here we find the structure of the Santenots and in the mid-palate almost (but not quite) the concentration of the Champans. However, there is a real extra dimension on the finish – the wine opens out beautifully.

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