1997

1997 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Champ-Chevrey is a 3.6 acre Monopole of Domaine Tollot-Beaut and is actually a climat of the better known 19.5 acre Aux Forneaux on the eastern limit of Savigny. To make life even more interesting, not all of the Aux Forneaux vineyard is 1er Cru! This particular wine has a reasonably deep ruby hue, though is still showing cherry red at the rim. The nose is quite broad with, still, primary black cherry and even a little blueberry. The palate shows an earthy edge, good acidity and there’s also a pleasing creaminess apparent on the finish. Not profound, but very lovely.

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1997 Morey Marc Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby colour. High toned cherry nose with faint blueberry. The nose really evolved, going through a stage where I suspected cork taint (despite an anything but dull palate) but this quickly became first caramel and then coffee. The palate is absolutely not meek and mild, fresh with lovely acidity, furry tannin and still a little oak. Becomes a little sweeter with aeration. A very long too, still with an astringent cherry finish – but then the cork note returns and dominates. A young and very characterful wine – spoiled by taint in this case.

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1997 Angerville Marquis d' Volnay Clos des Ducs

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium ruby red, but looks much older than Jadot’s Grèves. Nose starts quietly, then goes deep and sweet. After time a little wood spice develops together with higher ‘flowery’ tones. Well structured with very good acidity bold but controlled tannin. The fruit has good intensity and shows medium-plus length. Certainly worth saving longer as it should be very good, but this wine is not not as interesting as the 1998 I recently had, and doesn’t come close to the 1999.

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1997 Angerville Marquis d' Volnay Champans

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Deep ruby, no browning. Characteristic high toned Volnay nose of raspberries and some cherry. Deeper notes lower down too. Fresh, indeed harsh palate when first opened – but 15 minutes aeration was enough to smooth the edges. Good acidity and smooth ‘I’m here if you look for me’ tannins. Lovely concentrated fruit coupled with medium-plus length. This is still young – but lovely anyway.

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1997 Drouhin Joseph Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium ruby colour but just starting to show an amber/brown caste. The nose starts with fresh, primary and slightly roasted fruits and is quite earthy. Given aeration it becomes a little more meaty. The palate has a delightful texture with good acidity and smooth tannins which need looking for. Like the nose there’s a baked element to the fruit. The length is medium-plus – another very pleasing wine that should only get better over the next few years

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1997 Grivot Jean Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium/medium-plus ruby colour but quite a lot of development – looks older than many others here. The nose is of caramel, unusually a trace of spicy cedar and high toned raspberry and black cherry. The palate shows creamy raspberry and redcurrant against nice acidity and very astringent medium tannins – they’re quite smooth though. This is, perhaps, the most obviously young wine of all these tested and definitely should be left for at least 3 or 4 more years. Not a charmer today, but there’s plenty of potential.

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1997 Perdrix Nuits St.Georges Les Perdrix

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus colour. High toned nose of blueberry fruit over oak. Lots of oak on the palate, almost good fruit and relatively soft tannin. The acidity is good, and the wine comes across as quite young – but the oak on the palate doesn’t make it a charmer.

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1997 Hospices de Beaune Beaune Cuvée Dames Hospitalières

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

(Bouchard Père) Deep ruby colour with no obvious aging. Lovely rich nose of high toned black cherry underpinned by a trace of oak, develops a little blood-orange and coffee with time. Lovely mouthfeel with silky drying tannins and excellent acidity. There’s good concentration of black cherry which lingers in a very satisfying way. This is a wine that you can drink much faster than you should. Perfectly balanced to age but very satisfying today – very impressive.

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1997 Thomas Charles Nuits St.Georges Clos du Thorey

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium depth colour – just starting to become ruby. High toned fruit – shaded to red – with a slightly roast character. Good attack on the palate, nice fruit and grainy tannins though I find the acidity a little harsh. Still needs time to settle down, but there’s very good length. Should be good.

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