The colour is not fading a jot. The nose has a wide layer of high-toned fruit that covers a few bready notes and a tight core of fruit that bodes well for the future. The fruit is a little riper and plumper than the 2001 but the tannins are a little less fine. This is super wine and has the same personality as the 2001, but it’s dressed in jeans whereas the 2001 is dressed for dinner. The nose just grows and grows so decant if you’re going to drink now.
Compared to many 2003’s this is quite reserved on the nose, more diffuse but deeper than the 2002. The tannins are on a higher level than the two 03’s that preceded this (Monthelie and Beaune 1er Clos du Chateau), but we also have an all-round level of sophistication not found in those wines. An excellent 2003.
The nose starts with an off-putting cheesy/metallic note, swirling gets rid of this to reveal a mix of red and black shaded fruit that becomes more complex and pure by the minute – Bouchard own vines in 21 of the 44 Beaune Crus, most are represented in this wine. Fat but fleet of foot the fruit flavours are shaded towards black and backed up by velvetty tannin and nicely balancing acidity. This is usually a reliable wine but is really quite something in 2003.
On the nose there’s a little less ‘punch’ than the ’03 Enfant’. It’s higher toned and mixes red and black notes, slowly giving up a concentrating cherry edge. Super softness, creamy and concentrated fruit with a complexity that is not today apparent from the ‘Enfant’. A slight dry edge to the tannins on the finish. Lovely.
Golden colour. The nose has faint butterscotch and an aged, nutty, slightly aniseed complexion. With a little swirling more primary citrussy fruit is released. The palate is nicely put together with good acidity and shows a good, dense, mid-palate. The finish has above average length and majors on the hazelnut aspects. I have to say that this is not my favourite profile and whilst the nuttiness is a characteristic of a mature Meursault, this seems a little overdone – especially for a 99 – I suspect this is prematurely aged. Somehow the bottle was still finished with ease…
This is a vineyard from the northern side of Beaune, according to Philippe often quite smokey in presentation – like Volnay Caillerets. Very forward fruit and quite high-toned for a 2003. The palate has a very ripe coulis of fruit, good tannins but not quite so sophisticated as the ’03 Clos de la Mousse that preceded it. A good, mouthwatering and very long finish – just a little raisin fruit on the end.
The same label has been used since 1791. Always ripens earlier than most other Beaune vines due to the vineyard being a little like an amphitheatre. A nicely forward nose of smooth red fruit, a little powdery and an extra black depth – there’s more than a hint of spice too. Mouthfilling, complex but a friendly package with a creamy edge. Long and very fine – I’ve bought some.
This is always a warmer vineyard than the ones that surround it, hence, it’s often a rush to pick – 2 days later and it can be a very different wine. Philippe believes that this is potentially one of their best vineyard sites. A quite lovely nose, round with a sweet core of fruit. Mouth-staining, concentrated fruit flavours that follow through very well into the mid-palate. Tannins are dry but well managed – in a word gorgeous.
This walled vineyard was bought in several parcels before finally becoming a Bouchard monopoly in 1872. The soil is rich and brown and interestingly the vines are planted in a North-South orientation (like La Romanée) – this helped to shade the fruit from the sun in 2003. Picked a whole month later than in 2003! Starts slightly musky before giving up very pure red berry notes. Very fine texture to this wine – real executive tannins. Concentrated with a lovely, long and creamy finish. 75% new Alliers oak used in the elevage.
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