A tighter, finer core of black-shaded fruits on the nose – some depth too. A super fine texture to the palate, just a little more padding than the ‘Lavières’- again dark shaded fruit. I always liked this wine, and here is no exception.
2004
2004 Tollot-Beaut Beaune Clos du Roi
2004 Château de Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Maltroye
Medium yellow. A wide nose, some higher tones but not quite the amplitude or depth of some of these Chassagnes. The palate is rich and just a little softer but with real concentration. A real burst of intensity on the mid-palate though it’s just a little ‘un-knit’ at the moment. I think this is due to the oak treatment – there’s just perceptible coconut on the finish. Needs a little more time to come together, but it’s concentrated, has good acidity and should be rather good.
2004 Ramonet Noel Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
Medium-pale yellow. Deep and creamy, vanilla-laden nose – I never did find any fruit. The palate is a real mix of fruit and mineral attributes, well-balanced acidity and really impressive complexity. This is a lovely wine and quite easy to drink today, though for the short-term I’d put Amiot’s wine ahead, longer-term I think there’s more to this wine.
2004 Giroud Camille Pommard Epenots
2004 Giroud Camille Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.Jacques
2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
Only two barrels. Louis-Michel really needs to watch this cuvée because the smaller quantity can ferment all-to quickly and produce an edge of harshness. Be keeping tabs and generally bringing more control into the cuvaison he’s sure that the wine is greatly improved. Deeper colour. A quite lovely nose of red berries and cherries, wide, high-toned and perfumed. Extra density vs the village wines, super acidity and again great texture. The finish widens out beautifully. Real class.
2004 Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots
Deeper colour again. A deeper nose to match, with glossy cherry notes that are much closer to black fruit than any other wine. More structure, this is the only wine in the cave that shows a little grain to the tannin. It’s a bold yet rather tight wine, surprisingly Louis-Michel said he opened this about 6 hours earlier and it’s quite open vs then! Again super length – more linear in character than the Chaumes.
2004 Mischief and Mayhem Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne
Ebullient, wide and interesting nose that’s wide in perspective and shows a hint of mint. It does, unfortunately, become a little more diffuse as it sits in the glass – I should have come back to it, as others that did this also tightened-up again. In the mouth I’m very impressed, concentrated, linear and very mineral – wow. Good acidity and long too, a sleek and super wine.