Medium, medium-plus colour. Dark and deep in character with a faintly spicy edge. There is a higher level of tannin, though velvety, and extra dimensions of dark fruit on the palate. Well balanced, though certainly more masculine in style. Good length and interesting aspect to the acidity as it seems to ‘melt’ the tannins in the finish – a very interesting and impressive wine.
2002
2002 Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
A bright, medium cherry-red colour, just a shade lighter than the Echézeaux that stands by it’s side. A quite lovely nose that begins with a suggestion of torrefaction and sweet powdery fruit. Swirling releases a much more prominent and precise red-fruit note. Medium bodied, this wine shows an elegant balance between the fruit and acidity, the tannins showing a grainy edge and just a hint of dryness. There’s a serious aspect to this wine and whilst it’s shallow in the context of the DRC line-up in 2002, it’s certainly not shallow in the context of the appellation indicated on the label. I expect this wine will be a great investment, regardless of how you choose to use that word.
2002 Thomas Charles Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts
2002 Boillot Jean Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère
As a comparison, I opened this directly after the 02 Jean Boillot villages Puligny. The same medium lemon-yellow. The nose is tighter and less expressive, still deep, but without doubt finer. The palate likewise is a little tighter, with a little more citrus. Where this wine transcends the villages is the haunting finish, it really does go on and on. There we have it, less boisterous than the villages, but with much more finesse and length.
2002 Boillot Jean-Marc Montagny 1er Cru
Pale yellow. The nose is fresh, slightly citrus over dense fruit base. Likewise the palate is fresh, showing an almost Chablis minerality. The acidity is mouthwateringly good, but there’s a slight harshness to the palate – I can’t decide if it’s down to the acidity or an oak artifact – anyway it’s certainly not a bad wine but with it’s long but slightly saccharin finish I’ll look elsewhere.
2002 Clair Francoise et Denis St.Aubin Murgers des Dents de Chien
Already a deep yellow colour. The nose is sweet, a little spicy and slightly dense. The palate reflects the nose in that it’s dense and tight, only hinting at an extra layer of compexity. In this phase I’d like a hint more acidty to carry that density along, but it’s clean and very tasty. Hopefully it will move onto the next level as it unravels. Good.
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay Fremiets Clos de la Rougeotte
Named after the vineyard’s red soil, this monopole was acquired after the Clos de la Mousse. A brooding nose, darker in profile than the Clos de la Mousse. The new oak used for elevage is also ~75%, but this time it’s a mix of Troncais and Alliers. Whereas the Clos de la Mousse normally has an elevage of 14 months before bottling, this wine usually needs a full 18 months. To start, the palate seems less obviously intense that the Mousse, but slowly the power builds and builds and is coupled to a real step-up in complexity. Again really good tannins.
2002 Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Slightly toast on the warm, sweet red nose. The palate shows an oaky toasty base – but it’s well done – it’s additive to the flavour rather than the texture. Sweet with good acidity and a nice burst on the finish. Good fruit. Needs longer for the oak to better integrate but it’s already very drinkable – tasty!