Lighter colour than the 2002, a medium cherry red. The nose starts a little leafy and meaty, probably from the oak – not all that exciting – after 10 minutes of coaxing (it’s a cold bottle) it’s transformed into a gorgeous creme brulee with red fruit in the background. The palate is as smooth as silk, medium concentrated but good complexity and acidity. A long finish. Understated and beautifully balanced. A wine that becomes more and more demonstrative with time.
85% of the fruit comes from Les Crâs, the remainder from Les Petits Vougeots. Pale yellow in colour with a heady, high-toned nose that gradually becomes deeper and more complex; honey, melon then pineapple. Also on the palate you start with melon but this is quickly overtaken by the pineapple. Good acidity and a mineral finish make this a very interesting and nice wine.
Medium-plus yellow. The nose is a citrussy blend of creamy peach and apricot – very nice. The palate has very nice intensity and a lovely balance to the acidity. A wine I can happily drink on its own. Almost good length too. I found a very good price for this (and the Fevre 2001 Bougros too), a price that will allow me to make this one of my tipples of choice in the garden over the summer
Medium ruby red. From a rather powdery red fruit beginning the nose slowly takes on more interest and depth – though not obviously Vosne like the Beaumonts – kirsch, a little plum and cherry. The palate is fresh with tasty medium concentrated fruit. The wood is not that well integrated giving plenty of grain and a bitter edge to the finish – more-so than the 2000. Improves with aeration. This will also be a very nice wine, but needs keeping a little longer than the 2000, despite not seeming so concentrated.
This bottle was very cold and took some time to come round. Medium-plus colour. The nose is understated, a little spice, but takes a while for creamy red fruit to come through. The concentrated palate has fine, silky tannins and a spicy complexion to the fruit. This is a super Vosne, but is it a good Malconsorts? Revisiting an hour or so later, the nose is a little more forward with an additional black-fruit dimension. The palate remains concentrated and a little one dimensional. Certainly has the material and absolutely no hard edges, but will take some time to flower. Given the way the RSV (below) developed over longer time-frame I’d certainly expect good things.
Medium, medium-plus ruby red. Nose starts very understated, shiny red berries and only hinting at some depth. On the palate this wine zings along with very fine acidity and well-put-together tannins, quite velvetty. Just a little grain on the finish – but I think this is more from the wood. The fruit is at first a little one-dimensional – to be fair the staff at Gambal always recommend decanting young wines to aerate saying that they are pretty reductive when bottled. Towards the end of the bottle the nose is more interesting with a blacker dried-fruit aspect, the palate also shows more complexity – for the price this wine is very, very satisfying.
Whilst I loved Fourrier’s 2001 village Chambolle, this had to work hard to endear itself – eventually failing. Medium, medium-pale cherry red. The nose starts with a slightly reductive note, red fruit and a trace of coffee. It takes nearly two hours to show a little raspberry focus and eventually black fruit and cedar. The palate despite a little fat has slightly bitter tannins and a little dryness, good acidity and medium fruit. Give it a little time and it might be more interesting, but I think the tannins are a little unripe – probably most peoples impression of a Vougeot…!
Medium-plus cherry red. Lovely high-toned nose over sweet red cherry. The palate is less fat than the 2002 and has much fresher acidity that comes across as a little harsh – doesn’t show the concentration of the last wine. Medium tannins that are quite smooth. The finish is a good one, this time with no wood. Much less charming than the 2002 though.
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